GUANAJA, some 25km long and just 4km wide at its largest point, is divided into two unequal parts by a narrow canal – the only way to get between the two sections of the island is by water-taxi, which adds both to the atmosphere and to the cost of living. The island is very thinly populated and receives relatively few travellers. Note that sandflies and mosquitoes are endemic throughout the island, so arrive prepared to deal with them.

Most of Guanaja’s 12,000 inhabitants live in Bonacca (also known as Guanaja Town), a crowded settlement on a small caye a few hundred metres offshore. It’s here that you’ll find the island’s shops, as well as the bulk of the less unreasonably priced accommodation. The only other settlements of any substance are Savannah Bight (on the east coast) and Mangrove Bight (on the north coast).

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