Lying in a valley 25km south of Taipei, WULAI (烏來; wūlái) is a popular day-trip from the capital, offering magnificent mountain scenery and northern Taiwan’s highest waterfall. It’s also a traditional home of the Atayal tribe, though the mixture of kitsch stores and dance shows on offer are aimed squarely at tourists. The museum is definitely worth a visit though, and a short walk beyond the tourist carnival lie quiet valleys and rivers offering some beautiful hikes and genuine Atayal villages. Wulai is also one of three popular hot-spring areas near Taipei (with Beitou and Yangmingshan), though the main difference here is that it doesn’t have that rotten egg smell. “Wulai” loosely translates as “hot spring”, and comes from the Atayal word urai meaning poisonous.

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