The narrow backstreets of JIUFEN (九份; jiŭfèn) are generally vehicle-free and, away from the busier areas, local life proceeds remarkably undisturbed. Most visitors get off the bus adjacent to the Keting Parking Area at the top end of town, proceeding downhill straight into Jishan Street (基山街; jīshān jiē) to gorge on its vast array of snacks. However, if you fancy some exercise before tucking in, it’s not far up the road to the trailhead for Mount Keelung (基隆山; jīlóngshān). On a fine day the short but steep hike to the summit (588m) offers a spectacular panorama of both Jiufen and Jinguashi (allow 30min for an easy hike up).

Back in town, if you keep walking along Jinshan Street you’ll eventually reach Jiufen’s most picturesque corner, Shuqi Road (豎崎路; shùqí lù), actually a series of stone steps slicing through the middle of town and lined with teahouses and old buildings. Walk downhill to the junction with Qingpian Road, turn left along the road and you’ll eventually come to a small square in front of the entrance to Wufankeng (五番坑; wŭfānkēng) or No. 5 Mine, an evocative relic of Jiufen’s mining days – it’s locked up but you can still peer through the bars. Retrace your steps to Shuqi Road and a short walk in the other direction along Qingpian you’ll see gaudy Chenghuang Temple (城隍廟; chénghuáng miào), housing Jiufen’s City God. Continuing downhill, back on Shuqi Road, you’ll end up at a junction on the main road, with the bus stop on the opposite side.

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