The ride west from Ywama to Indein, starting among reed beds before continuing between more solid banks with jungle on both sides, is a striking contrast to the wide open space of the lake. Boats stop at a stretch lined with souvenir stalls, which gets particularly busy on market day.
Just behind the village, at the base of a hill, is Nyaung Ohak, a set of picturesquely overgrown stupas with carvings of Buddhas, chin-thé (guardian lions), devas (female deities) and peacocks. Head uphill along a covered walkway to reach Shwe Inn Thein Paya, a collection of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century stupas which is being slowly and heavy-handedly restored. On the way down, look out for a path on the left which runs through a bamboo forest back to the riverside.