One of the smartest places to stay in central Motomachi is the Hotel Akamon (ホテル赤門; t 04992/2-1213; ¥20,001−30,000 including two meals), with a choice of tatami or Western-style rooms (the latter in separate chalet-style cottages), an attractive rotemburo and onsen bath, and excellent seafood meals. To find it, walk up the road heading inland (east) from the ferry terminal, then take the first left where you’ll see its distinctive red gates at the end of the lane. On the same lane is the equally welcoming Pension Minamoto (ペンションみなもと; t 04992/2-1002; ¥10,001−15,000, or ¥15,001−20,000 including two meals), with simpler Japanese and Western-style rooms – none en suite – and good food. On the town’s northern outskirts, about ten minutes’ walk from the port, Subaru Pension (すばるペンション; t 04992/2-1142, [email protected]; ¥10,001−15,000, or ¥20,001−30,000 including two meals) has an English-speaking owner, a choice of room styles and good meals.

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