Approaching Everest along the Friendship Highway from Lhatse, allow about four hours in a good jeep to get up over the Lhakpa La Pass (5220m) to NEW TINGRI (新定日, xīndìngrì; also known as Shekar). Almost entirely constructed from concrete blocks, it’s not the nicest place, but it holds the ticket office for entry to the Mount Everest area and represents the last chance to stock up on provisions before the mountain.

There’s a checkpoint on the highway about 5km further on where some visitors have reported guards being particularly assiduous in confiscating printed material specifically about Tibet (books on China that include Tibet seem to be fine). Just 7km west of this checkpoint, the small turning to Rongbuk Monastery and on up to Mount Everest Base Camp is on the south side of the road.

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