Farm vacations
Farm vacations, where you spend time as a paying guest on a working farm, give you the chance to eat well, sleep cheaply – and even work (if you want) – as well as mingle with your hosts. Ontario has a range of farm-based B&Bs with reasonably priced accommodation. In western Canada, it’s possible to stay on a ranch and work as a ranch-hand. Due to the isolation of these places prices are usually for full board and include riding (from $120 per day). For further details, consult tourist offices and provincial accommodation guides. See also the Alberta Country Vacation Association (
w albertacountryvacation.com), BC Guest Ranchers’ Association (
w bcguestranches.com) and Ontario Farm & Country Accommodations (
wgitescanada.com).
Camping
Few countries offer as much scope for
camping as Canada. Many urban areas have a campground (in Canada the convention is to term the whole site a “campground” and individual pitches as “campsites”); all national parks and the majority of provincial parks have government-run sites, and in most wilderness areas and in the vast domain of Canada’s federally owned Crown Lands you can camp rough more or less where you please. If you’re travelling with a
tent, check a campground’s small print for the number of
unserviced (tent) campsites, as many places cater chiefly to
RVs, providing them with full or partial hook-ups for water and electricity.
During July and August campgrounds can become as busy as all other types of accommodation in cities, and particularly near mountain, lake or river resorts. Either aim to arrive early in the morning or book ahead. Generally reservations can only be made with ease at private campgrounds, not – crucially – at national park or provincial park campgrounds, where access is often, but certainly not always, on a first-come, first-served basis (you can make reservations at some national parks; check w reservation.pc.gc.cafor more details). Finally, check that your chosen site is open: many only open seasonally, usually from May to October.
Types of campground
At the bottom of the camping pile are
municipal campgrounds, usually basic affairs with few facilities, which are either free or cost only a few dollars – typically $5 per tent, $10 per RV.
Private campgrounds run the gamut: some are as basic as their municipal cousins, others are like huge outdoor pleasure complexes with shops, restaurants, laundries, swimming pools and tennis courts. Private campgrounds have several ways of
charging – some do so by the vehicle, others per couple and comparatively few on a tent or per-person basis. Two people sharing a tent might pay anything between $2.50 and $25 each, though an average price would be nearer $15.
Campgrounds in national and provincial parks are run respectively by Parks Canada and individual provincial governments. All are immaculately turned out and most, in theory, are open only between May and September. In practice, most are available year-round, though key facilities are offered and fees collected only in the advertised period: off season you may be expected to leave fees in an honesty box. You’ll usually find at least one site serviced for winter camping in the bigger national parks, particularly in the Rockies. Prices vary from about $20–40 per pitch for full amenities (electricity, sewage, water and showers), depending on location and the time of year, and $16–25 for basic pitches (wood, water and pit toilets). Most parks also have basic backcountry sites usually providing only fire pits and fire wood (see Primitive camping). If you want to use an official backcountry campground or just camp rough in parks, you must obtain an overnight permit from the park centre ($9.80).
Primitive camping
Though commonplace in all the larger national and provincial parks,
primitive camping (or backcountry/wilderness camping as it’s known in Canada) has certain rules that must be followed. In particular, check that fires are permitted: in large parts of Canada they aren’t allowed in summer because of the risk of forest fire. If they are permitted, use a fire pit (if provided), or a stove in preference to local materials. In wilderness areas, try to camp on previously used sites. Be especially aware of the precautions needed when in
bear country. Where there are no toilets, bury human waste at least 10cm into the ground and 30m from the nearest water supply and campsite. Canadian parks ask for all rubbish to be carried away; elsewhere burn rubbish, and what you can’t burn, carry away.
Never drink from rivers and streams, however clear and inviting they may look. If you have to drink
water that isn’t from taps, you should boil it for at least ten minutes, or cleanse it with an iodine-based purifier or a Giardia-rated filter, available from camping or sports shops.
oTENTik tents
In recent years Parks Canada has started offering more comfortable accommodation at national park campgrounds. Dubbed oTENTik tents, these are a cross between a tent and cabin (canvas roof and walls on a wood frame, and hardwood floors, bedframes and basic furniture), with room for three beds and up to six people. Bathrooms are still shared, however, and no food or cooking is permitted inside the tent. Rates range $75–150 per night depending on the park and the season.