While The Loire has long been popular for its exquisite châteaux and even more exquisite wines, its capital, Nantes, is less well-known than other French cities. But this youthful, vibrant city is breaking new ground with its forward-thinking approach to culture and green initiatives. Rough Guides editor, Rachel Lawrence, went to find out more.

Take a stroll through Nantes’ attractive city centre and you’ll be struck by the number of people on two wheels. They glide by effortlessly, on their daily commute, school run, trip to the shops, on their way to meet friends at one of the city’s many restaurants and bars. 

With 747km (464 miles) of designated cycle lanes and a comprehensive bikeshare scheme, with 123 stations and over 1,000 bikes, it’s easy to see why Nantes was voted France’s second-most bikeable city in 2019. 

Nantes has long been a pioneer when it comes to eco-friendly transport. In the 1980s, when many tramways had fallen into disrepair, it took the bold decision to build a new network. This kicked off a Europe-wide tram revival. Today three tram lines cross the city, along with an E-busway which operates in much the same way, with priority routes and frequent stops for its electric buses. But the feature that’s likely to turn visitors from other cities green, in every sense, is free public transport at weekends. 

The Green Line – a 20km art trail 

Appointed the European Green capital in 2013, Nantes boasts some impressive green credentials. It has over 100,000 trees, 100 parks, squares and gardens, and all of its inhabitants live within 300 metres (980ft) of a green space.

Among the most striking are the Jungle Intérieure, a tropical oasis in the heart of the Medieval Quarter created by local artist Evor, and the Jardin Extraordinaire, where a waterfall tumbles down the side of a former quarry. The most historic is the Jardin des Plantes botanical garden, with over 10,000 plant species and just a stone’s throw from the city’s main train station.

All three feature on the Green Line, a 20km (12-mile) permanent art trail which encapsulates the city’s spirit of openness and innovation. Best visited in sections, this self-guided trail connects landmark sights, such as the Jules Vernes Museum and the imposing Château des Ducs de Bretagne – home to the city’s absorbing history museum – with thought-provoking sculptures and innovative architecture. 

Every summer, temporary artworks are added to the trail for Le Voyage à Nantes (July to early September). From irreverent statues placed in the city’s neoclassical squares to imaginative playgrounds, the exhibits are open to all to contemplate and enjoy. 

Île de Nantes – a river island on the Loire 

There is no better way to explore this mostly flat city than by bicycle. Detours de Loire bike hire is conveniently located on Quai de Malakoff, close to the train station and the art nouveau tower of the Lieu Unique – the former LU biscuit factory turned cultural centre – from where it’s a short ride to the Île de Nantes. Cycle paths lap the perimeter of the island, offering the perfect way to view art installations dotted along its northern edge.

Redevelopment of the island began in the 1980s following the decline of ship building in the city and today this former industrial area is a hub of creative enterprise. At the Magmaa food hall, located in a former Alstom warehouse, independent restaurateurs serve a mouthwatering array of international and local dishes, from Korean soul food to seasonal pastries, with an emphasis on quality and provenance. 

Just west of here lies the city’s most magical attraction, the Machines de l’Île. Each day, the 12-metre (39ft) -tall Grand Elephant ambles out onto the Parvis de Nefs, carrying 50 passengers on its back and squirting water at passers-by. Cross the square and you’ll encounter a giant merry-go-round of flying fish, giant squid and other sea creatures from the stories of Jules Vernes.

In the Galerie des Machines, home to a bestiary of crawling and squawking mechanical creatures, visitors can learn more about the creative process behind these astonishing inventions and take a peek at new ones in development. 

On the southern side of the esplanade, the Maison des Hommes et des Techniques (MHT) offers an insight into the history of the city’s shipyards, a theme reflected in Les Anneaux (The Rings), a series of steel circles on the Quai des Antilles, which leads to the Hangar à Bananes. This popular nightspot is also home to the HAB Galeri contemporary art space and La Cantine du Voyage, a colourful restaurant and bar with communal tables, a holiday atmosphere and an onsite vegetable garden.

Sustainability is a cornerstone of the city’s rapidly evolving food scene, with local, seasonal produce used in inventive ways in many restaurants, such as Sain, a cosy, stone-clad restaurant near the Cathedral, complete with a grocery selling organic produce from the family farm and an excellent selection of natural wines. The best of the city’s restaurants are listed in Les Tables de Nantes.

Beyond the city 

An extension of the Green Line, the Estuaire art trail runs west along the Loire to the ship-building town of Saint-Nazaire, past captivating installations such as La Maison de la Loire, a partly submerged house near Couëron, and the Serpent d’Océan whose spiney form surges lifelike out of the sea at Saint-Brevin-les-Pins. Covering 60km (37 miles) along both banks of the river, the trail can be accessed on foot, or by bike, car or boat. 

Voyage dans le vignoble (Journey through the vineyards), meanwhile, follows the banks of the Sèvre south to the town of Vertou, the perfect starting point for a visit to one of the Loire Valley vineyards producing the region’s excellent Muscadet, many of which are accessible by bike.

There is ample opportunity to explore the Sèvre and Maine rivers, with electric boats available for hire (April to November) from Ruban Vert. Alternatively, hire a canoe or a kayak from Canöe Kayak Vertou (April to mid-October) and paddle your way to Château du Coing for a wine-tasting tour. 

If you fancy more of a challenge, and haven’t gone overboard on the wine tasting, the route continues on through La Haye-Fouassière, Le Pallet and Gorges before reaching Clisson. From here it’s a short train journey (bikes accepted on board) back to Nantes.

Nantes also lies at the western end of the 900km (560-mile) Loire Valley cycle route, which follows the course of the river from Cuffy, near Nevers, to Saint-Brevin-les-Pins on the coast, overlapping with the poetically named Traversée modern d’un vieux pays (Modern crossing of the old country). Divided into six sections of 1–2 days’ cycling each, this scenic route heads north through the historic seaport of Redon to Brittany’s capital city, Rennes, then follows the coast to St-Malo and finally Mont St-Michel.

Whilst most sections are accessible for novice cyclists, some stretches require a higher level of fitness, but you can let the train take the strain if you fancy a break from pedalling. 

A more direct inland route across the Brittany Marches to Mont St Michel is due to open in spring 2024. La Régalante (275km/170 miles) connects several existing routes, including plenty of off-road sections suitable for families, passing through picturesque villages and the medieval towns of Châteaubriand, Vitré and Fougères. 

Whether you wish to explore Nantes’ art and culture by bike, strike out to the coast or arrive at a Loire château by canoe, you’ll find sustainable travel is more than just a buzzword in this beautiful part of France. A visit here gives you the chance to take things slower, look at the world from a different perspective and take time to appreciate the good things in life. 

Nantes and the Loire Valley: The Lowdown

Where to stay:

Oceania Hotel de France is a renovated 18^th-century mansion close to Place Graslin and the majestic Passage Pommeraye. A three-night stay starts at £250 pp, based on two people sharing. Breakfast is not included.

How to get there:

Return rail fare from London St Pancras International to Nantes costs from £160 with Eurostar and TGV.

Pass Nantes:

Ranging from 24 hours (£23) to 7 days (£74), the Pass Nantes offers access to 50 attractions and unlimited public transport.

Find out more about Nantes and the Loire Valley.