written by Thomas Rees
updated 12.03.2019
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written by Thomas Rees
updated 12.03.2019
With its natural wonders, revolutionary history and captivating culture – informed by the vodou (voodoo) religion – Haiti is like nowhere else in the Caribbean. Look beyond the trash talk and the misconceptions and you’ll be richly rewarded.
President Trump’s recent comments are just the latest in a long line of slurs directed at Haiti, a fascinating and much-misunderstood nation. There’s no denying the country is poor, but Haiti is rich in other ways: it’s home to vibrant cities, cloud-cloaked mountain citadelles and secluded white-sand beaches. It’s also thrillingly unexplored – go there and you’re likely to have these world-class sights all to yourself.
The recovery process, following the earthquake of 2010 and Hurricane Matthew in 2016, is well underway and in the last year alone huge strides have been made, with new buildings springing up across the capital, Port-au-Prince. Haitian infrastructure can be challenging to negotiate – the technicoloured tap-taps that form the backbone of the country’s public transport system, trundling along unmarked routes, are a case in point. But there are now a number of excellent local tour companies operating too, making it easier than ever to get around.
Still not convinced? Well, here are five reasons why you should re-think Haiti's position on your travel list.
The city also has a buzzing and resourceful arts scene. In the commune of Croix-des-Bouquets, artists sculpt birds, animals and vodou deities from recycled oil drums. Meanwhile in the neighbourhood of Grand Rue, home to handicrafts hub the Iron Market, an underground collective known as Atis Rezistans craft gritty masterpieces from all manner of debris – even from a few bones.
As you explore the city, look out for “gingerbread houses”. These tumbledown mansions, with their rickety verandahs and yards of elaborate woodwork, are icons of Haitian architecture. The Hotel Oloffson is the most famous of them all, known for its staring role in The Comedians, Graham Greene’s novel about Haiti. Every Thursday night, the hotel plays host to an energetic live show from one of Haiti’s best loved groups, the vodou rock and roots band RAM.
Also not to be missed are the nearby ruins of Sans-Souci, a palace complex crippled by the earthquake of 1842. If you’re pushed for time, Haiti’s Sunrise Airways operate flights between Cap-Haïtien and Port-au-Prince (around 20 minutes each way).
Pixabay/CC0
If you’re driving to Jacmel (around three hours from Port-au-Prince) be sure to stop for a swim at Bassin-Bleu, where a waterfall framed by jungle-swathed cliffs feeds a chain of exquisite turquoise pools. There’s also a spectacular two-day hike between Jacmel and Furcy, in the mountains above Port-au-Prince, through the Parc Nationale La Visite.
The Bureau National d'Ethnologie, in the centre of Port-au-Prince, will teach you the basics. If you’re lucky, you might catch charismatic museum director Erol Josué, a vodou priest (houngan), singer, dancer and passionate defender of the faith. Look out for performances of traditional vodou music, characterised by hypnotic drums and vocals, which often take place in the grounds.
Of the country’s many sacred sites, the most spectacular is Saut-d'Eau, a plunging, 100ft cataract associated with the spirit Erzulie. Each July, hundreds of worshippers gather here to take part in vodou baptism ceremonies.
Visit Haiti in November and you might catch Fête Gede, the vodou equivalent of Mexico’s Day of The Dead.
Erol Josué by Thomas Rees
The Côte des Arcadins, north of Port-au-Prince, is dotted with white-sand coves and small beachfront resorts, such as Moulin Sur Mer, in the grounds of an 18th-century sugar plantation that is now a museum.
More spectacular still are the secluded beaches of Kokoye and Bananier in the region of Petit-Goâve. There’s also snorkelling and whale and dolphin-watching opportunities in the area. Jacmel has beautiful bays of its own, east of the town, at Cayes-Jacmel, a good spot for surfing. And the beaches of Port-Salut in the southwest, not far from the caves of Grotte Marie-Jeanne, are legendary.
KSK Imaging/Shutterstock
Top image: Olena Boronchuk/Shutterstock
written by Thomas Rees
updated 12.03.2019
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