Travel advice for Mexico
From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for traveling to Mexico
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written by Daniel Stables
updated 8.05.2019
Strung out along the photogenic shores of Lake Catemaco, circled by looming hills born of long-extinct volcanoes, and fringed by one of Mexico’s last remaining tracts of rainforest, the sleepy backwater town of Catemaco feels like its own little corner of the earth. Emerging from the air-conditioned cocoon of an ADO coach into what must be Mexico’s prettiest bus station, the low afternoon sun reflected thickly in the surface of the lake, it’s not hard to understand why Catemaco has become the epicentre of Mexican witchcraft, sorcery, and shamanism.
The natural setting, the isolation, and – if you believe certain of the locals – the area’s potent supernatural properties have proved the perfect breeding ground for a unique brand of folk magic: a strange brew of indigenous paganism with Catholic ritualism and occult iconography.
Locals believe the Lakeside setting of Catemaco is connected to its mystic powers © wayak/shutterstock
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Each March, Catemaco comes alive as hundreds of sorcerers, shamans and witches from across Mexico descend on White Monkey Hill, a mountain overlooking the lake, to perform a mass spiritual cleansing ceremony. Far from an ancient rite, though, this event first took place in 1970, the initiative of the town’s brujo mayor (great sorcerer) Gonzalo Aguirre. It was Aguirre who turned Catemaco’s witchcraft tradition – until then a quiet local enterprise centred largely on traditional herbalist practices – into a tourist attraction.
His own origin story reflects Catemaco’s emergence from obscurity into Mexico’s collective consciousness. Beginning his career as the driver of the former brujo mayor, Aguirre eventually assumed the position himself and attained a degree of celebrity, performing televised rituals for presidents and actors. This brought travellers and money to Catemaco, but it also spawned a new generation of brujos keen to cash in on the town’s freshly expanded reputation.
A cleansing ceremony at
Nanciyaga eco reserve © Nanciyaga
Some in Catemaco will tell you that the witchcraft practised in the town has taken on a sinister edge in recent decades. Some of the rituals carried out at the yearly mass cleansings on White Monkey Hill, such as the sacrificing of chickens and goats, are common to pre-colonial paganism across Mexico. Others, like the burning of giant inverted pentagrams, chants invoking the Devil, and other Crowleyesque borrowings from the canon of modern Western occultism, bear little relation to Catemaco’s heritage of ‘white witchcraft’. This development is not limited to the annual mass gatherings. Throughout the year, visitors can enlist the services of the town’s brujos for spiritual cleansing, herbal medicinal treatments, and fortune telling. Rather more sinister are the black magic practices, often centred around revenge and involving pins, dolls, toads, and satanic invocations. Many brujos will cheerfully offer both – provided, of course, that the price is right.
Witchcraft is big business in Catemaco. Browsing the town’s magic shops, their shelves cluttered with wax dolls and vials of strangely coloured liquids, is an experience in itself, but you don’t have to travel far in town before you’re offered the chance to take things up a gear with a consultation with a local brujo. The most rudimentary ceremony on offer is a limpia espiritual (spiritual cleansing), which involves standing stock-still while a chanting, white-clad shaman brushes you with rosemary leaves, then rubs an egg on your head, cracks it into a glass of water, and interprets the gooey shapes as they dance around the glass.
Even for a sceptic, it’s heady stuff, with incense burning in the background, the skeletal visage of Santa Muerte looking on, and Lucifer jostling for wall space with the Virgin of Guadalupe. This commercialisation of magic has caused something of a divide in Catemaco between those accepted to be genuine shamans, and those shysters looking to hoodwink gullible tourists. For those who have travelled too far to care, though, or aren’t convinced there’s a difference in the first place, undergoing a ceremony is a memorable experience, and the whole culture is a fascinating fusion of paganism and Christianity.
Shaman Prepares for a ritual at
Nanciyaga eco reserve © Nanciyaga
Suitably spiritually refreshed, you can turn your attention to exploring one of Mexico’s last great wildernesses. A relaxing way to start is with a boat trip on Lake Catemaco, the area’s star attraction. The attractive lakefront promenade is thronged with food carts selling tegogolo – a freshwater snail considered to be a local delicacy, not to mention a purported aphrodisiac – and boat operators who will happily take you on a tour of the lake’s highlights.
A colony of stump-tailed macaques lives on Isla de los Changos, relocated here as part of a university study in 1974; 45 years on, they still look slightly miffed at having to live in these confined surroundings, rather than the rainforests of their native Thailand. They are, at least, quieter than their neighbours on Isla Agaltepec: a group of howler monkeys whose ear-splitting cries can be heard from the lakeshore. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can finish off your tour of the lake with a swim at one of the beaches – just keep your wits about you. Morelet’s crocodiles nest here, although the boat drivers are keen to make it known that they don’t have a taste for humans.
The rainforest at Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve
© Nanciyaga
Back on dry land, the remarkable eco reserve Nanciyaga offers the chance to explore the pristine rainforest of Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve. Guided tours see guests spotting scarlet macaws and howler monkeys in the treetops, and learning about the hundreds of species of life-giving medicinal plants which were the original basis of Catemaco’s herbalist witchcraft tradition. If a full-on shamanic ritual is a bridge too far for you, then try the more relaxing experience of a traditional temezcal sauna, take a dip in a natural mineral mud bath, or just sit back and soak up the intoxicatingly strange atmosphere of this far-flung corner of Mexico.
17 days / from1590 USD
The Magic of the Yucatan and Mexico City
Explore the magic of the Yucatan Peninsula: from colonial towns like Merida to Archaeological sites like Uxmal and Calakmul, close to the Guatemala border, to beaches in Bacalar and Tulum, this itinerary shows you the real Yucatan before heading out to explore Mexico City.
customize ⤍15 days / from1430 USD
Mexico City, Oaxaca & the Yucatan
Explore Central Mexico with its ever-busy capital Mexico City, visiting Teotihuacan and the famous museums in the city. Further on to Oaxaca City, the gateway to the Archaeological Site Monte Alban. Afterwards, continue to the white beaches of the Yucatan: Cancun and Isla Holbox await.
customize ⤍18 days / from1735 USD
Fascinating Mexico: From Guanajuato to the Yucatan
Discover Mexico from fascinating San Miguel de Allende over busy Mexico City all the way to the Yucatan Peninsula. This itinerary combines public transportation with domestic flights to ensure you can make the most of discovering fascinating Mexico within two weeks.
customize ⤍18 days / from2190 USD
Marvelous Mexico: From Yucatan to Mexico City
Your trip starts on the wonderful coast of Yucatan, exploring the beaches and archaeological highlights like Chichen Itza and Tulum. From there on continue the exploration to Palenque and Oaxaca before taking a flight to Mexico City - 3 days in the capital await your discovery.
customize ⤍10 days / from2147 USD
Mexico's Highlands and Coast
Discover Mexico City's historic highlights and the wonders of sites like Teotihuacan, Campeche and Palenque before you jet off to the Central HIghlands. Discover archeological ruins and traditional tribal villages, then fall for the charms of Mexico's old colonial cities and glitzy Caribbean coast.
customize ⤍7 days / from1499 USD
Mexico's Mayan Trail
Follow the Mayan Trail around Mexico on this archaeological adventure. Begin your journey with a refreshing taste of sea and salt air in the Yucatán Peninsula on one of Playa del Carmen's gorgeous Caribbean beaches before heading off to discover magical Mayan ruins and glorious colonial towns.
customize ⤍12 days / from3057 USD
Magnificent Mexico and Mayan Treasures
From Mexico City down to the southern state of Oaxaca, this trip packs in all of Mexico's colonial charms and archeological wonders. You'll also get to take to the beach at Playa del Carmen, swim in the Caribbean Sea and under cascading waterfalls and boat along lovely Sumidero Canyon.
customize ⤍7 days / from1518 USD
Mexico's Churros and Chiapas
Arrive in exciting Mexico City and get a taste of its surprising charms, imposing plazas and beautiful colonial old town. Then jet off to Chiapas where you'll spend your days exploring canyons, waterfalls and national parks. Then finish with a dose of Mayan culture deep in the jungle at Palenque.
customize ⤍10 days / from890 USD
Los Cabos Self Drive
Take your rental car and explore the beaches and islands of Cabo. Located in Baja California Sur, Los Cabos, Todos Santos, and Cabo San Lucas do not only have excellent beaches to offer for your exploration but also a fascinating wildlife.
customize ⤍15 days / from1450 USD
From Mexico City over Chiapas to Cancun: The Best of Mexico
This itinerary combines the metropolitan glamour of Mexico City with its fabulous museums and pyramids with an outdoor adventure in Chiapas visiting the Sumidero Canyon and the fascinating wildlife and cultural heritage of the Yucatan. Two weeks showing you the true highlights of Mexico!
customize ⤍9 days / from1670 USD
Mayan Heritage Tour in Yucatan
Yucatán is calling you, and this trip is the way to do it; go into the jungle and know it like no one else has ever known it; enjoy incredible food, beautiful sunsets, and the warmth of its communities that will do everything possible to offer you a dream experience. Are you ready?
customize ⤍8 days / from1516 USD
Mexico City to the Yucatán
Enjoy a whirlwind tour of Mexico City, taking in the museums, churches and colonial plazas of Mexico's vibrant capital. Then relax on Playa del Carmen's Caribbean beaches before you take off to explore some of the country's most amazing archeological treasures.
customize ⤍10 days / from2307 USD
Mexico's Nature and Beaches
Explore the nature and wildlife of Chiapas and Tabasco by visiting the Sumidero Canyon and Agua Azul waterfalls before heading off to the Yucatan Peninsula: Chichen Itza awaits to impress you with its magnificent pyramids before ending the trip at the white beaches of Holbox.
customize ⤍14 days / from1350 USD
Chiapas, Tabasco, Yucatan: Explore the Eastern Highlights
Explore the wide depths of Sumidero Canyon in Chiapas, the fascinating archaeological site of Palenque in Tabasco before moving on to the Yucatan to explore Merida, Chichen Itza and the peaceful island of Cozumel. This itinerary offers adventure and relaxation in 14 days.
customize ⤍20 days / from1280 USD
Discovering Central Mexico: from Guanajuato to Oaxaca
With this itinerary, you will get to know the real Mexico: from magic towns to archaeological sites all the way down to the beautiful beaches of Huatulco - this itinerary combines history, cuisine, and relaxation, all compactly available in a 3-week trip.
customize ⤍21 days / from1490 USD
Enchanting Mexico: from the capital to the beaches
Discover Mexico's capital before heading to your first Mexican beach: Puerto Escondido. After some days relaxing in the sun, head to Cancun to pick up your rental car and explore the Yucatan Peninsula in your own car. From archaeological sites to stunning beaches, the peninsula awaits.
customize ⤍11 days / from2415 USD
Culture & Jungle in Chiapas
Get ready for an adventure through Chiapas with hosts who are prepared to welcome you and discover the natural beauty of canyons, waterfalls, lakes, and rivers! The magnificent archaeological sites will amaze you as well as the charming towns.
customize ⤍16 days / from1850 USD
Mexico City and the Yucatan - from the city to the beaches
Take this trip to explore the best of Mexico City: From the museums to the pyramids of Teotihuacán. Afterwards continue to Merida to explore the famous Pink Lake and the Haciendas of the Yucatan. At the ed, take your time relaxing on the beaches in Playa del Carmen and Cancun.
customize ⤍7 days / from925 USD
Authentic and unique Mexico City
Mexico City seems to have it all - over 50 museums, a beautiful historic city center, an extensive city park with a majestic castle, upscale neighborhoods like La Condesa or La Roma, bohemian Coyoacan and mouth-watering cuisine. This trip shows you the best of this mega city.
customize ⤍7 days / from590 USD
Mexico City Explored
Mexico City is one of the most fascinating cities in North America. This week-long itinerary grants you an insight to the museums, restaurants, and events in the capital, as well as exploring surrounding cities such as Taxco or Puebla. Get ready for a true Mexican adventure!
customize ⤍12 days / from3405 USD
Mexico's Tomb Raider Experience
Explore the caves, cenotes, pyramids, and beaches of the Yucatan Peninsula. Inspired by the famous Tomb Raider video game, this itinerary takes you exploring across the pyramids of Chichen Itza, Ek Balam, and Coba, before relaxing at the white beaches of Cozumel.
customize ⤍10 days / from1695 USD
Oaxacan Coast Adventure
Adventure awaits you on this trip to the Oaxacan coast, a place as spectacular as the activities you will do. From a boat trip to the beautiful bays of Huatulco to a warm horseback ride on the seashore in Puerto Escondido. Enjoy freedom of traveling with your own rental car.
customize ⤍12 days / from850 USD
The Gems of Yucatan - a Self Drive Trip
Go at your own pace and discover the Peninsula de Yucatan with its many archaeological sites, its colonial villages, and stunning beaches. Having your own car allows you the maximum freedom to explore and the easy road access makes driving yourself a breeze.
customize ⤍11 days / from2846 USD
Amazing Mexico
This 11-day trip takes you from Mexico City, where you will enjoy the La Merced Market to Merida where you can discover Maya ruins...with more adventure along the way, such as Hierve el agua where nature will surprise you and Oaxaca city a great cosy UNESCO World Heritage City.
customize ⤍7 days / from2251 USD
Baja: Pacific Coast Paradise
Baja California is an off-the-beaten-track unspoiled paradise. The area is home to mountains, deserts and thousands of kilometers of gorgeous Pacific coastline. Come here to explore, snorkel, dive or do a spot of whale watching (in season). Otherwise, sit back and relax on its soft sandy shores.
customize ⤍9 days / from1475 USD
Taste of Mexico
Discover the most unique places in Mexico City before heading out to Puebla and Oaxaca, tasting the best Mexico has to offer: mole poblano, chocolate, a corn workshop - this is a hands-on tour, showing the variety Mexico has to offer, both in food and culture wise.
customize ⤍8 days / from2230 USD
Small Group Tour: Yucatán Off the Beaten Path
This is a trip immersed in Maya culture, considering visits to essential places, accommodations in different Maya communities, and cultural and outdoor sports activities. Trip starts February 1st & April 29, 2024 - prefer to do this trip in private? Send us a request for individual pricing.
customize ⤍9 days / from3035 USD
Mayan Heritage on the Yucatan Peninsula
Embark on a Yucatan self-drive adventure, blending renowned treasures like Tulum and Chichen Itza with hidden gems. Wander off the beaten track to discover local communities, engaging in community-based experiences. Delve into Mayan culture, sample authentic cuisine, and explore the region.
customize ⤍7 days / from1800 USD
Immersive Mexico City
Discover the vibrant heart of Mexico City in 7 unforgettable days. A stroll through historic downtown, explore colorful markets, and savor delicious street food. Day trips to Teotihuacan's ancient pyramids and Chapultepec Park's museums offer cultural enrichment.
customize ⤍10 days / from3275 USD
Flavours of Central Mexico
Start in Mexico City, exploring its rich history and vibrant markets. Journey to Cholula to uncover ancient pyramids and partake in cooking classes. Conclude in Oaxaca, where you'll dive deep into local markets and culinary traditions, forging unforgettable memories.
customize ⤍Header image: Lakeside jetties in Catemeco © Robert Briggs/Shutterstock
written by Daniel Stables
updated 8.05.2019
Daniel has authored, co-authored or contributed to more than 30 travel books for Rough Guides, Insight Guides, DK Eyewitness and Berlitz, on destinations as far afield as Indonesia, Nepal, Oman, Mexico, Tokyo, Thailand and Spain. He regularly writes articles for a variety of travel publications, online and in print, including BBC Travel, The Independent, Lonely Planet, and National Geographic Traveller. Read more of his work at danielstables.co.uk.
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