- Off the Beaten Track
- See & Do
written by Owen Morton
updated 22.10.2020
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written by Owen Morton
updated 22.10.2020
We’ve gathered a list of the top sights and activities in this beautiful, historic country.
Museum-goers are well catered for: the History Museum, with its huge range of fascinating and quirky exhibits (the world’s oldest shoe, anyone?), is arguably the best museum in the Caucasus region; the Matandaran offers a beautiful collection of ancient illuminated manuscripts; and there are numerous house-museums dedicated to the memory of Armenia’s many talented writers and artists.
If all that seems heavy going, though, a perfect contrast is a visit to the Ararat Brandy Factory: Winston Churchill was a fan, so who are we to argue? After an interesting tour to glimpse the process and a chance to sample the wares, relax in one of the city’s many restaurants, cafes or wine bars and enjoy further excellent local produce such as stuffed vine leaves and deliciously juicy pork kebabs.
Khor Virap church with Ararat Mountain in the background © MehmetO/Shutterstock
But in terms of historical significance, Khor Virap perhaps edges into the lead – it’s where the country adopted Christianity in 301 AD, and you can still climb down into the pit where the monk who brought the religion to the country was imprisoned for fifteen years. It’s not bad to look at either, standing proud beneath the snow-capped peaks of Mount Ararat. For sheer isolation, try the often wind- and rain-swept Vorotnavank: it’s gorgeous, yet rarely visited by tourists, so it’s easier to imagine life as a medieval monk here. But our pick for the most picturesque monastery in Armenia is Noravank: built of striking pink-orange stone and set atop a rocky outcrop in the Amaghu Gorge, it’s arguably the pinnacle of medieval monastic architecture, and is particularly stunning at sunset.
The best news, though, is that you don’t necessarily have to choose: Khor Virap, Vorotnavank and Noravank can all be visited in one (long) day trip from Yerevan.
Khor Virap church with Ararat Mountain in the background © MehmetO/Shutterstock
While at Garni, check out the other ancient ruins on site: you’ll find the remains of an unusual circular cathedral and a fairly well-preserved bathhouse. Garni is also the start point for an excellent trek past Giant’s Causeway-esque basalt columns to the magnificent Geghard monastery, which is one of the country’s holiest pilgrimage sites.
Garni Temple © Owen Morton
Other options include the well-established walking trails in the northern Dilijan National Park, which has in recent years been described as the Switzerland of Armenia. Part of the ambitious Transcaucasian Trail, the multi-day routes here take you through lush forests and along magnificent gorges, with side trips possible to the gorgeous monasteries of Haghartsin and Goshavank. If you prefer day hikes, consider the 8km walk from Shirakamut village to Trchkan, the highest waterfall in Armenia.
Amberd Fortree on slopes of Mount Aragats © Owen Morton
But it’s outside Yerevan, across the rest of the country, where you’ll find some of the most interesting Soviet leftovers. Monuments to the Great Patriotic War can be seen atop hills above many towns – these often bleak, monolithic structures have a bizarrely enthralling beauty of their own. Our favourites among these brutalist concrete behemoths include the World War II memorial above the town of Sisian, and Spitak’s unloved and neglected tribute to the 1988 earthquake.
If you want a slice of Soviet memorabilia to remember the USSR by, make sure to visit Yerevan’s Vernissage Market, where you can pick up anything from hammer-and-sickle pin lapels to clocks emblazoned with Stalin’s face.
Mother Armenia in Victory Park, Yerevan © Thomas Dekiere/Shutterstock
Elsewhere, you may find the town of Jermuk also rather unusual: it’s a spa town that was popular among Soviet holidaymakers, and it’s still frequented by visitors from across the former USSR, who come for medical tourism. The town’s centrepiece is a grandiose colonnaded arcade, which is packed full of taps dispensing the local mineral water – which comes warm, salty and fizzy. Visitors buy cups and help themselves to the water: it’s a great spot for people-watching. Jermuk is also home to a gorgeous waterfall and a lovely walk in the Arpa gorge.
Alphabet monument © Owen Morton
Armenia packs a great deal into its small size: its fascinating history and stunning scenery make it a must-see destination. Having reopened to tourists, now could be the ideal time for you to explore.
Top image: Khor Virap church with Ararat Mountain in the background, Armenia © MehmetO/Shutterstock
written by Owen Morton
updated 22.10.2020
Owen Morton is never happier than when exploring new places, with a particular fondness for wandering the former Soviet world and the Middle East. He is the author of the upcoming Rough Guide to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, and has written for Rough Guides' Make the Most of Your Time on Earth compilation, as well as regular contributions to the Rough Guides and Insight Guides blogs. When not exploring the world, he entertains himself by writing a blog about 1980s cartoons. His favourite animal is the wonderfully expressive and permanently furious manul. Follow him on Instagram at @owenmortonmanul.
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