Chile Guide
Around Santiago
Santiago is close to some fine, and frequently overlooked, attractions, from national parks and thermal springs to sleepy villages and lush vineyards.
The obvious main attraction is the Andes, with the Cajón del Maipo providing good access into the cordillera, leading to the small but spectacular Monumento Nacional El Morado. In winter, skiing is a terrific possibility, the several excellent resorts are just a ninety-minute drive from the capital and increasingly offer year-round activities like hiking and mountain biking. Wineries are another of the area's highlights, with some of Chile's oldest and most famous vineyards within easy striking distance, often offering tours and tastings.
1 Vinoteca De Martino 229 Manuel Rodríguez, Isla de Maipo 
8192062 
www.demartino.cl Opening time: Mon– Fri 10am–1.30pm & 3–6.30pm, Sat 10am–1.30pm An hour south of Santiago in the suburb of Isla de Maipo, this very friendly Italian winery offers free informal tours and "specialized" tours for a fee. Reservations are required for the specialized tours. To get here, take a bus from the San Borja bus station to Isla de Maipo and tell the driver to drop you at the winery Santa Inés. Driving, take the Carretera del Sol, exit at Talagante, take a left towards Isla de Maipo and follow the signs.
2 Viña Concha y Toro Virginia Subercaseaux 210, Pirque 8217000 www.conchaytoro.com Opening time: Tours in English Mon– Sat 10am, 11.30am, noon & 3pm This handsome vineyard was founded in 1883 by Don Melchor Concha y Toro, and in 1994 became the first ever winery to trade on the New York Stock Exchange. The tours take you around the original bodega, with its countless oak barrels and huge stainless steel vats, and end up at the salesroom, where you taste ordinary wines and must "buy your glass" for US$6. Take the Bellavista metro line (green) south to Avenida Vicuña Mackenna, Paradero 14. Get off the train and go to the bus stop and catch a southbound blue bus Line #74. This goes to Pirque; ask the driver to let you off at the winery. A decent map is online.
3 Viña Cousiño Macul 7100 Av Quilin 3514175 www.cousinomacul.cl Chile's oldest winery dates from 1550, when wine was shipped to Peru. Today the family produces wine at a number of vineyards. Much of this winery was ripped up in 2003 to make way for a US$2 billion housing development, and new vineyards were planted near the town of Buin, but the main estate and park still make a nice quick trip from central Santiago. Tours in English and Spanish Monday to Friday at 11am; reservations required at least three days in advance; US$6. Driving directions: take Americo Vespuccio south to the Quilin roundabout, head towards the mountains on Avenida Quilin and look for the sign at 7100. Otherwise, take bus line #390 east, towards the mountains; you can catch this on the Alameda, in the centre of the city. Bus Line #391 headed east also goes by the vineyard.
4 Viña Santa Carolina 2228 Av Tiltil, Macul 23609883Price: Two-hour tour (US$10 per person) includes tastings; reservations required two days in advance Just twenty minutes from the centre, this vineyard has a remarkable old wine-processing plant that has been declared a national monument. Take metro Line #5 (green) south to the Rodrigo de Araya stop and walk west, towards the mountains, about three to five minutes. If you are driving, take Avenida Vicuna Mackenna south, then turn right on Rodrigo de Araya, and the vineyard is about 200 yards along, on the left.
5 Viña Undurraga Old road to Melpilla, km 34 8172346 www.undurraga.cl Opening time: Mon– Fri 10am, 11am, 2pm & 3.30pm; Sat 10am, 11.30am & 1pm; Sundays 10.30am, 11.45am & 1pm; reservations recommendedPrice: CH$4000Still run by the Undurraga family, the vineyard was established in 1885, complete with mansion and park. It's a large, modern winery, and you're likely to be shown around not by a smiling public relations guide, but by someone who's directly involved in the wine-making, which makes it a whole lot more engaging. There is one free tasting at the end. The winery's a thirty-minute bus ride from Santiago – take a bus to Talagante from Terminal San Borja (every 15min), and ask the driver to drop you off at the vineyard.
Portillo
Set just off the international road from Los Andes, 7km short of the border with Argentina, Portillo is a classy place, with no condominiums and just one hotel – the restored 1940's Hotel Portillo ( 2630606, www.skiportillo.com ; Price: CH$35000–150000), perched by the shores of the Laguna del Inca. This all-inclusive resort offers the most relaxing, hip ski scene in South America. Sun, snow and sex seem to be the themes at this southern winter home to the US, Austrian and Spanish national ski teams. Being farther from Santiago (149km), the hotel is designed for weekend or weeklong bookings, with an extensive range of package deals. While most rooms are expensive, there are a wide variety of options, including bunks. The rate includes four meals a day and use of the outdoor heated pool and disco. Expect an eclectic crowd of Brazilians, Argentines and famous actors and business leaders. The ski runs at Portillo are world-class, and off-piste options are endless. Elevation ranges from 2510m to 3350m. There are twelve lifts, as well as extensive snow-making equipment. Portillo is avidly kid friendly and its ski school is routinely ranked one of the world's best.