#4 Explore the old town
Jaisalmer’s captivating old town surrounds the fort, and contains a few sights of its own, not least a series of delightful havelis. Despite the area's slightly labyrinthine layout, most tourists end up navigating precisely the same channels – as such, it’s surprisingly easy to step away from the souvenir stand hawkers, and end up in a little slice of “real” Jaisalmer.
#5 Get a taste of the city at the Thar Heritage Museum
In the centre of town, the modest little Thar Heritage Museum is one of Jaisalmer’s more interesting museums.
Showcasing the personal collection of a local historian, who may be on hand to explain some of the stories and customs behind the quirky array of local artefacts on display, exhibits range from bits of fossilised tree and old chillums through to camel regalia and antique musical instruments.
#6 Check out the architecture of Nathmalji-ki-Haveli
Just north of Bhatia Bazaar, the Nathmalji-ki-Haveli was built in 1885 for Jaisalmer’s prime minister by two brother stonemasons, one of whom built the left half, the other the right, as a result of which the two sides are subtly different.
It’s guarded by two elephants, and the first-floor bay window above the main doorway is surmounted by a frieze of little figures including elephants, horses, a steam train and a horse-drawn carriage. The place is basically a shop now, but it’s still worth a look.
#7 Head to Patwa Haveli to see its exuberantly carved jharokhas
The finely decorated Patwa Haveli, or Patwon-ki-Haveli, lies a couple of blocks north of the Nathmalji-ki-Haveli, its exterior a positive riot of exuberantly carved jharokhas (protruding balconies).
The haveli was constructed in the first half of the nineteenth century by the Patwa merchants – five brothers from a Jain family who were bankers and traders in brocade and opium.
There are actually five separate suites within the haveli; two are closed to visitors and two more, preserved in their original condition, are open as government museums.
One, the Kothari Patwa Haveli Museum, has various traditional artefacts on display and replica mirrorwork on the walls, giving you some idea of how the haveli would originally have looked.
As well as visiting the interior of the Patwa Haveli, it’s worth taking a little stroll down the street whose entrance it bridges, to check out the stonework on four impressive neighbouring havelis.
#8 Stand in awe of the lavishly carved overhanging rooftop balcony of Salim Singh ki Haveli
The third of Jaisalmer’s famous trio of havelis, the Salim Singh ki Haveli, lies on the east side of town and is immediately recognisable by the lavishly carved overhanging rooftop balcony that gives the whole building a strangely top-heavy appearance.
Its upper floor, enclosed by an overhanging balcony, is best seen from the roof of Natraj restaurant. Halfway up the building is a surprisingly good shop, with ornate pots and traditional “air fresheners” in the shape of animals, which use natural oils.