Arequipa, second city of Peru and a day’s journey from Lima, sits poised against an extraordinary backdrop of volcanic peaks. Located 2335m above sea level, the city enjoys a distinctly poetic appearance. If you’re coming from the north, it’s one of the last places to really merit a stop before continuing on south to the Chilean border. White local stone from the surrounding mountains has been heavily incorporated into the city’s buildings and was a major factor in Arequipa being designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Trekkers from across the world are attracted by the startlingly varied countryside within the city’s reach: from the gorges of both the Colca Canyon – massive but dwarfed by the glaciers and volcanoes on either side of the valley – and the more distant Cotahuasi Canyon, to the unsettling isolation of the Valley of the Volcanoes.
Further inland from Arequipa, you will probably want to spend time at the world’s highest lake, Lake Titicaca. Its island stays, folk traditions, and high Andean setting make it one of the most distinctive stages of a Southern Peru trip.
The surrounding area is renowned for its folk dances and Andean music, and this is an obvious place to break a journey from Arequipa to Cusco or into Bolivia. Visit and stay on one of the huge lake’s islands to experience life in a very traditional Andean household, or get to know its main town and port, Puno, a high, quite austere city with a cold climate and incredibly rarefied air.
Juliaca, to the north of Puno, makes an alternative, if dull and unattractive, base for exploring the lake or the countryside of this poor, largely peasant area.