After the smattering of small villages scattered along the Carretera Austral, Aysén’s lively regional capital, COYHAIQUE, can be a welcome change. The city’s fifty thousand inhabitants make up half the region’s population, and it’s the only place along the Carretera that offers a wide range of services, from pharmacies and banks to laundries and car-rental outlets. It’s also a good launch pad for some great day-trips.