USA // New England //


Greyhound buses (t 603/433-3210) run from Boston twice daily, stopping outside 55 Hanover St, a short walk from Market Square. You can pick up information from the visitor centre at 500 Market St, a fifteen-minute walk from Market Square (June–Sept Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm; t 603/436-1118, w, or from the kiosk in Market Square (May–Oct daily 10am–5pm). Portsmouth Harbor Cruises (t 603/436-8084 or t 1-800/776-0915, w is one of several operators offering boat trips, from $13.

Accommodation in the town centre is restricted to expensive places such as the grand Sise Inn, 40 Court St (t 603/433-1200 or t 1-877/747-3466, w; $161–300), a beautifully preserved Queen Anne-style house with large rooms; the peaceful, rambling seven-room Inn at Strawbery Banke, 314 Court St (t 603/436-7242 or t 1-800/428-3933, w; $161–200); and the hip Ale House Inn, 121 Bow St (t 603/431-7760, w; $161–300), a remodelled former brewery on the waterfront. Cheaper motels near the traffic circle, where I-95 and Rte-1 intersect, include the good-value Port Inn, Rte-1 Bypass South (t 1-800/282-PORT, w; $101–130).

Portsmouth bills itself as the “food capital of New England”. Of the in-town restaurants, Jumpin’Jay’s Fish Café, 150 Congress St, (t 603/766-3474), offers the best seafood in town. Ristorante Massimo, 59 Penhallow St (t 603/436-4000), is a gourmet Italian restaurant with a strong wine list (reservations a must), and funky Friendly Toast, 121 Congress St (t 603/430-2154), makes for an inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot, with generous portions.

At night, the Portsmouth Brewery, 56 Market St (t 603/431-1115, w, serves up exceptional microbrews and occasional live music, while The Press Room, 77 Daniel St (t 603/431-5186, w, has jazz, blues, folk or bluegrass performances every night. Those searching for caffeine rather than alcohol will be happy at Breaking New Grounds (t 603/436-9555) in Market Square.

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