For evocative inland scenery in the southern Marmara, two shallow lakes, Uluabat Gölü and Manyas Gölü, support a dwindling fishing community and a bird sanctuary respectively. The Uludağrange above Bursa attracts skiers in winter and hikers in summer, while Cumalıkızık at the base of the mountain is a showcase village.
Before the wars and population exchanges of the early twentieth century, much of the local population was Greek (or Bulgarian) Orthodox, though all the larger towns held substantial Jewish and Armenian communities. After the Turkish Republic was established, massive immigration – both internal and from abroad – changed the mix. The resultant ethnic stew includes people of Çerkez (Circassian), Artvinli and Greek Muslim descent, as well as a large settled Romany population, but consists predominantly of Pomak, Bosnian and Macedonian Muslims, plus Bulgarian Turks. All these groups had, in fact, been trickling in for decades before 1923, as Austro-Hungarian or Orthodox nationalist victories in the Balkans made their previous homes inhospitable to Turks or Slavic Muslims.
Top image: Cumalikizik, Turkey © Hakan Eliacik/Shutterstock