The coast west of Avilés, as far as the Río Navia, is rugged, with scarcely more than a handful of resorts carved out from the cliffs. The most appealing are the old port and resort of Luarca, and pretty little CUDILLERO, a delightful, picturesque fishing port, squeezed so tightly into a narrow, corkscrewing valley 25km west of Avilés that none of its buildings manage to face directly out to sea. Nonetheless, the brightly coloured arcaded houses that rise, one above the other, up the steep horseshoe of cliffs that surround the port give it the feel, and appeal, of a Greek island village, and it’s usually thronged with visitors in summer. As you climb the twisting main street away from the water, the architecture becomes grittier, but the whole town still oozes character. There’s no beach here, however – the nearest is the lovely cove at Playa Aguilar, 3km east – so the most obvious attractions are the fish tavernas in the cobbled plaza just above the seafront.