Ptuj is arguably Slovenia’s most attractive town, rising up from the Drava valley in a flutter of red roofs, and topped by a charming castle. The streets themselves are the main attraction, with scaled-down mansions standing shoulder to shoulder on scaled-down boulevards and medieval fantasies crumbling next to Baroque extravagances.

Ptuj’s main street is Prešernova ulica, an atmopspheric thoroughfare which snakes along the base of the castle-topped hill. At its eastern end is Slovenski Trg, home to a fine-looking sixteenth-century bell tower and the Church of St George, dating from the twelfth century, with an interior distinguished by some spectacular frescoes. From here Prešernova leads to the Archeological Museum, housed in what was a Dominican monastery until the eighteenth century. Its likeably dishevelled cloisters now display medieval and modern stone carvings. At either end of Prešernova, cobbled paths wind up to the castle – featuring an agglomeration of architectural styles from the fourteenth to the eighteenth centuries – which now houses the carefully presented collections of the Ptuj Regional Museum.