The Alfama Travel Guide

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest and most distinctive neighborhood, a tight maze of alleys, staircases, and steep cobbled lanes that wrap around the lower slopes of the Moorish castle. It’s the kind of place you explore on foot, without a map, letting yourself get lost between crumbling façades and tiled corners.

What makes Alfama special isn’t just the architecture or the views, it’s the life that continues between the stones. You’ll pass children playing in tiny squares, hear fado songs echoing from windows, and smell sardines grilling outside front doors. This is one of the best areas to stay in Lisbon if you’re after atmosphere over convenience.

There are plenty of stops worth making: the Fado Museum, Lisbon’s cathedral, the Pantheon, the Roman Theatre Museum, and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Further east, the National Tile Museum is another highlight. But don’t rush. In Alfama, the streets themselves are the main attraction.

How to get to Alfama

Alfama is just east of downtown Lisbon, tucked between the Sé (cathedral) and the river. It’s walkable from most central areas, but bring good shoes, it’s all steep hills and uneven cobbles.

The most direct way in is on foot from Baixa, heading uphill past the cathedral into the heart of the neighborhood. It’s a climb, but worth it. You’ll pass small shops, tiled façades, and likely a tram or two rattling by.

For a more scenic route, take Tram 28, the classic yellow tram that winds through Alfama’s tightest streets. It’s touristy and often overcrowded, but still iconic, just aim to ride it early or late in the day.

You can also hop on Tram 12, a shorter loop that hits many of the same spots but skips the long queue. Or take bus 737 from Praça da Figueira if you want a quick ride straight to Castelo de São Jorge.

There’s no metro station in Alfama itself. The closest stop is Santa Apolónia, which is at the eastern edge of the neighborhood. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk uphill into the core.

You can use your Viva Viagem public transport card on all trams, buses, and metro lines.

What to do in Alfama

If you're building a Portugal itinerary or looking for the best things to do in Lisbon, you can’t miss Alfama. This is the city’s oldest neighborhood, and it’s packed with layers of history, from Moorish ruins and medieval churches to fado bars and flea markets. But it’s not about ticking off sights. The streets themselves are part of the story.

That said, Alfama has more than a few standout stops worth planning around. Here’s what not to miss.

#1 Lisbon Cathedral (Sé)

Lisbon’s oldest church is more fortress than fairytale. The Sé was built in the 12th century on the site of a former mosque, and its Romanesque arches still look battle-ready. Inside, the rose window and cloister are the highlights. Excavations in the cloister have uncovered layers of Roman and Moorish buildings beneath the surface, worth a look if you're into ruins with your religion.

#2 Museu do Fado

This is where you come to understand the music that defines Alfama. The Fado Museum gives you the full backstory of Portugal’s most melancholic art form. There are recordings, portraits, instruments, and stories of legendary singers. It’s a smart move to stop here before heading to a live fado show later in the evening.

#3 Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas

Set inside a 17th-century mansion, this under-the-radar museum is filled with beautiful objects collected by banker Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva. Expect ornate tapestries, Portuguese carpets, and intricate furniture from the 1600s to 1800s. There’s also a peaceful courtyard café that’s perfect for a break.

#4 São Vicente de Fora

One of Lisbon’s most important churches, São Vicente de Fora, was built in the 16th century outside the old city walls. It later became the royal pantheon for the House of Bragança. The tombs include Portugal’s last king and Catherine of Bragança, who married England’s Charles II. The upper floors feature whimsical tiled scenes from La Fontaine’s fables, and the rooftop offers panoramic city views.

#5 Feira da Ladra

Held every Tuesday and Saturday, the Feira da Ladra or “Thieves’ Market” is Lisbon’s best-known flea market. It sprawls through Campo de Santa Clara, just below the National Pantheon. You’ll find everything from vintage tiles and secondhand books to military surplus and oddities you didn’t know you wanted. The mix of locals, collectors, and characters makes it worth visiting even if you don’t plan to buy anything.

#6 National Pantheon (Santa Engrácia)

With its white dome visible from across the city, the National Pantheon is hard to miss. Originally a church, it now holds the tombs of notable Portuguese figures, including presidents, writers, and fado icon Amália Rodrigues. Head to the upper terrace for sweeping views over the river and rooftops.

#7 Museu Nacional do Azulejo

A short walk east of Alfama proper, this is one of Lisbon’s best museums. Housed in a former convent, the Tile Museum traces the history of azulejos from the 15th century to today. Highlights include a massive panoramic tile mural of Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake and tiled scenes set in church cloisters. The café in the garden courtyard is also a gem.

#8 Alfama walks and viewpoints

The best way to experience Alfama is to wander. Start below the Sé and follow Rua de São João da Praça downhill into the heart of the neighborhood. You’ll end up at Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, where many of the best fado houses sit. From there, climb back up through alleys and staircases toward Largo das Portas do Sol. The views here are unbeatable: red rooftops, the dome of the Pantheon, and the river stretching out beyond.

Where to eat in Alfama

If you’re wondering where to eat in Lisbon, Alfama is about tradition more than trends. Think smoky taverns, grilled fish straight off the street, and hearty stews served in no-frills dining rooms. Fado houses dominate the evening scene, but you can also find family-run tascas and a couple of newer spots that bring fresh energy. Prices can be all over the place, and service may lean casual, but the food feels rooted here.

• Clube de Fado: A classic choice if you want the full fado-and-dinner experience in Alfama. The vaulted stone dining room sets the mood, the music is taken seriously, and the dishes lean traditional: codfish, grilled meats, and lots of vinho tinto. It’s pricier than a tasca, but the quality and atmosphere make it one of the safer bets.
• O Beco: A cozy little restaurant hidden in Alfama’s maze of streets. The menu leans traditional: grilled sardines, cod dishes, and hearty stews, but everything is done with a bit more polish than your average tasca. The atmosphere is intimate, the staff are welcoming, and it feels like the kind of place where you could linger over a bottle of wine without being rushed. Booking is smart, as space is limited.
• Farol de Santa Luzia: Right by the Santa Luzia viewpoint, Farol de Santa Luzia serves classic Portuguese dishes in a setting that makes the most of its location. The menu features grilled fish, seafood rice, and hearty meat dishes, all paired with a solid wine list. It’s more polished than a tasca but still relaxed, with tiled walls and windows looking out over the river. A good option if you want a sit-down meal in Alfama without going for a fado dinner.
• Alfama Cellar: A small but refined restaurant offering Portuguese classics with a contemporary touch. The octopus is a standout, and the wine list is well chosen without being overwhelming. Service is warm, the setting intimate, and it’s a great pick if you want something a bit more polished without leaving the neighborhood.
• Sr. Fado de Alfama: Run by a husband-and-wife team, this tiny place is equal parts restaurant and private concert. You’ll be served a fixed menu of traditional dishes before the lights dim and the fado begins. It feels personal, authentic, and more intimate than larger fado clubs. Booking ahead is essential.