Peniche

Impressively enclosed by ramparts, PENICHE is one of Portugal’s most active fishing ports. As late as the fifteenth century the town was an island, but the area has silted up and is now joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, with gently sloping beaches on either side. Unsightly development stretches along the coast, but inside the walled town there is a small grid of narrow streets dominated by the fortress, and a busy harbour and marina – Peniche is the embarkation point for the Ilha da Berlenga – while there’s an enjoyable regional market held on the last Thursday of the month. Determined touts hawk rooms and a glut of seafood restaurants vie for the tourist euro, and although the balance of life here is changing, Peniche has yet to be seduced entirely from its fishing roots. Gangs of fishermen still repair nets at the harbourside, while the first weekend in August sees the boisterous festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem, during which there’s a blessing of the fleet, plus fireworks, bands and dancing in the street.