With its grand hotels, opulent villas and antique shops, few places in Germany exude the style of Kaisers Zeiten – the age of the Kaisers – quite as strongly as WIESBADEN, 40km west of Frankfurt. The Romans had a fort here, the hot springs have been popular for centuries and the city was capital of the Duchy of Nassau from 1815 until it was subsumed into Prussia after the 1866 Austro-Prussian war. But it was after German unification in 1871 that Wiesbaden experienced its fashionable heyday, favoured by Kaiser Wilhelm II himself, and it’s from this period that its grandiose architecture dates. It came through two world wars in good shape, its status growing post-1945 as capital of the new Land of Hesse and as the European headquarters of the US Air Force: the Berlin airlift was coordinated from here. It’s also a centre for the Sekt – or German champagne – industry.
Idyllically situated at the foot of the rolling Taunus and with lavish parks and greenery, Wiesbaden combines the attractions of a health resort with those of a city. The traffic-free Altstadt is easily explored on foot and is fringed to the east by Wilhelmstrasse – the kilometre-long avenue known as the “Rue” – with the Kurhaus on its eastern side. Within easy reach to the north, the Neroberg is popular for fresh air and views, while south of the centre the suburb of Biebrich boasts a Baroque Schloss and park. Offering everything from bracing walks and spa facilities to good restaurants, luxurious shopping and high culture – all of it overlaid with an atmosphere of faded glamour and genteel convalescence – the “Nice of the North” is unique among major German cities.Read More
Wilhelmstrasse – the so-called “Rue” – runs north–south through the city, its western side a flâneur’s paradise of upmarket boutiques, elegant cafés and hotels, many of them long established behind florid, late nineteenth-century facades.
On the eastern side of Rue, the gardens and the central pond Warmer Damm provide a verdant setting for the Hessisches Staatstheater, a turn-of-the-twentieth-century pile built at the behest of Kaiser Wilhelm II by the renowned Viennese theatre architects Fellner and Helmer, and a rarity in a large German city for preserving its graceful auditorium in its original neo-Baroque style. The extravagant neo-Rococo foyer, built in 1902, now functions as a breathtakingly opulent bar. Even if you don’t go to a performance, it’s worth asking whether any of the tourist office’s themed guided tours is due to visit. The theatre’s relatively inconspicuous main entrance is in the colonnaded group of buildings surrounding the Bowling Green to the north.