St Pauli segues leafy residential streets north into the Schanzenviertel. A former working-class district that nurtured the city’s alternative culture, the Schanze has evolved into the epicentre of the hip Hamburg scene, with a good spread of cheap eats, bars and boutiques and a nicely scruffy laidback vibe; only Rota Flora, a semi-derelict former theatre on Schulterblatt, remains as a reminder of its radical counter culture past. Yet its bar-scene is thriving – this is the locals’ choice over the rather tacky options off the Reeperbahn. From Neuer Pferdemarkt where Feldstrasse meets Budapester Strasse, the region fans out around its spine street, Schanzenstrasse, its core being a plaza where Schulterblatt meets Susannenstrasse. Marktstrasse just north of Feldstrasse U-Bahn station has a good spread of independent boutiques.