Ascending Mount Dajti
The dark, looming shape of Mount Dajti is visible from Tirana, a temptation that can prove too much for city dwellers, who head to the forested slopes in droves on sunny weekends. The mountain’s network of paths feels surprisingly remote even though you’re only 25km from the capital.
There is no public transport to the mountain, but you can get a taxi to the base of the cable car, which takes passengers a stone's throw from the summit. There are a number of restaurants in the area, useful if you fancy refuelling before heading back down. It’s worth combining this with a visit to Bunk’Art, which is near the cable-car station in Tirana.
Exploring Kruja
Lofty Kruja, 35km from Tirana, was the focal point of national hero Skanderbeg’s resistance to the Ottoman invasions of the fifteenth century, and you’ll see his likeness all over town. Most people make a beeline for the castle, which houses a number of restaurants and an excellent History Museum, whose diverting collection of weaponry, icons and the like is augmented by an impressive modern interior.
Also within the castle walls is the Ethnographic Museum housed in a gorgeous building with a serene outdoor courtyard. Souvenir sellers have taken over the town, and the best place to buy your Albania-flag T-shirt, Skanderbeg statuette or Mother Teresa lighter is the restored Ottoman bazaar, just below the castle access road.