North of the theatre, an attempt has been made to spruce up the previously seedy lakeshore boardwalk, or malecón, with bars and food kiosks, plus a couple of fairground rides. A statue of Latin American liberator Simón Bolívar sits in the middle of the nearby roundabout, guarding the shorefront’s entrance. The area gets quite lively at weekends, though it’s fairly deserted during the week except for ambling teenage couples. There are pleasant views to the north, where Volcán Mombotombo and Mombotombito sit side by side against the horizon on the far shore of the lake, 50km away.

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