PORT FAIRY was once an early port and whaling centre but is now a quaint and hugely appealing crayfishing and tourist town with a busy jetty, a harbour full of yachts, and over fifty National Trust-listed buildings; it’s an essential destination for architecture fans. Heavy breakers roll into the surrounding beaches, and on Griffiths Island, poised between the ocean and Port Fairy Bay, there’s a muttonbird rookery with a specially constructed lookout where, between September and April, you can watch the birds roost at dusk.