Explore The east coast
The name Pulau Perhentian actually covers two islands, Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil (which mean large and small stopping places, respectively; Big Island and Small Island are sometimes used instead). Both are textbook tropical paradises, which retain considerable appeal despite having been developed for tourism. The essentials of any idyllic island holiday – fantastic sandy beaches, and great snorkelling and diving – are all in place. Both islands have jungly hills in their interior, with paths for walking and opportunities to spot flying foxes, monkeys and monitor lizards. All this is capped by a refreshingly laidback atmosphere that can make it difficult to tear yourself away.
For many years, large-scale development on the Perhentians was kept to a minimum. This was just as well, given that both islands are home to several turtle nesting sites, active from April to early August – the only organized viewing is through the Bubbles resort – and that the impact of the existing resorts on the environment is far from negligible. Shortages of water, for example, can be a hassle during the tourist peak.
The state government’s attitude towards development has loosened up in recent years, however, and a few larger resorts have been constructed. Alcohol is also sold openly these days at a handful of restaurants and bars, although it seems that it is not strictly legal: the police periodically confiscate booze from businesses on the island but it isn’t long before things are back in full swing.
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Perhentian Kecil
Perhentian Kecil
The small island of Perhentian Kecil has something to please most people. If you’re looking for a laidback backpacker scene with the odd beach party, you’ve come to the right place, but several mid-range resorts cater for those who need a comfortable bed after a day snorkelling. The most popular beaches, Coral Bay and Long Beach, are only ten minutes’ walk apart, via a footpath through the woods.
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Perhentian Besar
Perhentian Besar
The larger of the two islands, Perhentian Besar, has a more grown-up atmosphere. Although it holds a few relatively cheap options in addition to the mid-range resorts, it doesn’t have the backpacker scene or nightlife of its neighbour. On the other hand, the beaches remain relaxed despite some nearly continuous strings of development.
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Perhentians dos and don’ts
Perhentians dos and don’ts
- Do bring more than enough cash – there are no banks or ATMs. Only some mid-range places accept plastic for accommodation and food, with a small surcharge. You may also be able to get a cash advance for a significant fee.
- Do bring mosquito repellent.
- Don’t leave valuables, even clothes, on the beach – whether crowded or deserted – while you swim or snorkel. Thieves can appear seemingly from nowhere on snatch-and-grab raids.
- Do swim with care: look out for boat lanes, marked by strings of buoys, and stay on the correct side to avoid being wiped out by a speedboat. Note also that Long Beach can have a significant undertow from February to April and in October; a few people get swept out every year and have to be rescued.
- Do be mindful of sharp-pronged boat anchors sticking out of the sand as you walk along the beach at night – particularly if you’re looking up at the stars.
- As always, don’t touch the coral or disturb marine life when you snorkel or dive.
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Snorkelling and diving around the Perhentians
Snorkelling and diving around the Perhentians
Outside the monsoon, the waters around the Perhentians are superb: currents are gentle, and visibility is up to 20m (although sea lice can sometimes be an irritant, inflicting unpleasant but harmless stings). A snorkelling foray around the rocks at the ends of most bays turns up an astonishing array of brightly coloured fish, including black-tip reef sharks, and an occasional turtle. The seas around the islands are part of a national park so the coral is protected, although as elsewhere in the region it suffered bleaching due to high sea temperatures in 2010. It remains to be seen whether that was an isolated incident.
If you just want to explore around the main beaches, then snorkels, masks and fins can be rented from accommodation, dive shops or shacks on the main beaches. Snorkelling trips to undeveloped coves can be arranged at beach stalls (particularly on Long Beach), or most accommodation, for around RM35 per person.
Some very good dive sites lie just a short boat ride offshore, including the Pinnacle (aka Temple of the Sea), T3 and Sugar Wreck (a boat that sank while carrying a cargo of sugar). In addition to fun dives, the islands’ numerous dive shops also offer courses, including Open Water, Advanced Open Water and the introductory Discover Scuba Diving; a handful also offer specialist facilities such as Nitrox. Most places teach PADI courses, although Alu Alu (walualudivers.com) uses SSI certification.
