Mentawai Islands, Indonesia

A world apart from mainland Sumatra, the enticing jungle-clad Mentawai Islands lie 150km off the west Sumatran coast. Separated half a million years ago, the islands are as famous for their world-class waves now as they are being home to a unique tribal culture and a wealth of endemic flora and fauna – including langurs, macaques and the long-armed Mentawai (Kloss’ gibbon). Both, however, are under serious threat – from illegal logging and a government seeking to integrate the Mentawaian tribes into the Indonesian mainstream.

The best travel tips for visiting the Mentawai Islands

If your idea of Indonesia trips stops at Bali sunsets and temple selfies, the Mentawai Islands will mess with your expectations, in the best way. Here, life is lived in uma longhouses, surrounded by thick jungle and the whisper of ancestral spirits. It’s a world where subsistence farming feeds the body, and unseen forces shape the soul.

Locals have long welcomed visitors, but for years, the profits went elsewhere, mainland operators ran the show, and villages saw little return. That’s changing. On Siberut, the biggest island, you’ll now find barebones homestays run by locals who’ll take you deep into the forest: no filters, no schedule, no performative culture shows. And on Sipora, surfers check into remote camps perched near world-class breaks, where the only crowds are palm trees.

Not every corner of the country fits the guidebook mold, and that’s exactly the point. The Mentawais aren’t a side note to your Indonesia trips; they might just be the chapter that stays with you longest.

Best things to do on the Mentawai Islands

The four Mentawai Islands have a basic, nascent tourism scene, so when it comes to things to do, remember that this isn't Bali. You're most likely to land on Siberut Island, a bio-reserve. Be respectful of the local tribes and leave only footprints.

#1 Meet a Mentawai tribe

Organised tours of Mentawai are loudly marketed in Bukittinggi. Most tours centre on the southeast of the island, where you’ll be able to watch and join in with people going about their everyday activities, such as farming, fishing and hunting. Be sure to obey guidelines you are given about how to behave as the locals have a complex cultural system of what is taboo.

#2 Surf some waves

Indonesia is one of the world’s premier surfing destinations, with an enormous variety of first-class waves and perfect breaks. But only intrepid wave catchers make it to the tubes that curl alongside the Mentawai Islands. The activity, however, is becoming increasingly popular. Visit in June and July for the best and most consistent surf.

#3 Go jungle trekking

The entirety of Siberut Island, the largest of the four Mentawai Islands, is a UNESCO-protected National Park. A mixture of primary forest, swamp, coastal forest and mangroves, this really is a natural heaven. Sixty-five percent of the mammals here are endemic alongside fifteen percent of the fauna. A jungle trek can take you to the heart of the island where four species of primates, including the pig-tail snub-nosed monkey, are only found here. Tread carefully.

Where to stay

There are a handful of basic homestays at the port of Siberut, the largest of the four islands. Head to Masokut Island for cheap, all-inclusive surf camps or the north of Sipora Island for basic hotels and homestays with unbeatable views.

Find the best hotels here.

Best restaurants and bars on the Mentawai Islands

There’s not much of a restaurant and bar scene on the Mentawai Islands. Some of the more upscale resorts, like Aloita Resort, will serve up restaurant-level buffet food and wine, but with fresh fish in abundance here, the majority of visitors eat where they are staying.

How to get there

It takes around four hours to get to the Mentawai Islands from the west coast of Sumatra, longer on the ferry. Note that the crossing can be rough.

By boat

From Padang, there are three boat services to Siberut throughout the week: the Mentawai Express speedboats; Sumber Rezeki boats; Ambu-Ambu boats; and the more-recent KMP Gambolo.

By ferry

Ferries also link the islands’ other ports, such as Tuapejat on Sipora Island and Sikakap on North Pagai Island. These generally take around 12 hours with some overnight crossings.

Learn more about how to get to Indonesia.

How many days do you need?

You could, should you wish, see enough of the Mentawai Islands in two days. Get the boat across from Padang, spend a day on the beach and a night in a bungalow, and then go back. Most people will stay a week to 10 days, particularly surfers. If you plan to surf, sunbathe and explore Siberut Island National Park, give yourself at least five days.

Looking for inspiration for your trip? Talk to our Indonesia travel experts.

Tips for getting around

There are no cars on the Mentawai Islands, so everyone gets around by boat or canoe. The ferry stops at each island giving visitors the chance to island hop but on the islands themselves you’ll need your own two feet. This really is paradise.

Best time to visit the Mentawai Islands

As an equator-hugging tropical paradise, the hot and sunny weather remains consistent year-round on the Mentawai Islands. The days are warm and humid with slightly cooler nights and the occasional tropical storm rolls in.

If you’re here to surf, visit in June and July for the best and most consistent waves. The weather is a little less predictable around Christmas and New Year but this is a popular time to go. Pack a mac if you’re worried about the odd tropical downpour.

Find out more about the best time to visit Indonesia.

Plan your trip to the Mentawai Islands with the Rough Guide to Southeast Asia On A Budget.