Despite its seventeenth-century fort, the rail- and road-junction town of JHANSI, in an anomalous promontory of UP that thrusts south into Madhya Pradesh, is not very exciting. Most visitors stop only long enough to catch a connecting bus to Khajuraho, 175km southeast in Madhya Pradesh. Like Avadh, Jhansi was an independent state until the British summarily annexed it in 1854, and was consequently a major centre of support for the 1857 uprising, under the leadership of Rani Lakshmibai, its last ruler’s widow, and the uprising’s great heroine.

Like many former British cities, Jhansi is divided into two distinct areas: the wide tree-lined avenues, leafy gardens and bungalows of the Cantonment and Civil Lines to the west, and the clutter of narrow lanes, minarets and shikharas of the old town to the east.

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  • Jhansi Fort
  • Rani Lakshmi Mahal
  • St Jude's Shrine