Surrounded by Bangladesh on three sides, the lush mountains and valleys of TRIPURA became part of India in 1949; since then, its fate has been entwined with that of Bengal. Partition and the subsequent creation of East Pakistan (now Bangladesh) in 1948, followed by war, famine and military regimes forced millions of Bangladeshis to flee into Tripura, where they now significantly outnumber the indigenous people, which has caused much resentment. Nevertheless, Agartala, the capital, is a relaxed city with a palace and a few temples, with Udaipur and the fairy-tale palace at Neermahal easily accessible. A handful of sanctuaries such as Gumti, Rowa, Trishna and Sepahijala protect the state’s few remaining forests.

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