India // The Northeast //

Practicalities

The nearest airport is 67km away at Lilabari, near North Lakhimpur in Assam. Helicopters (t 0360/224 3262) to Guwahati, Hapoli (Ziro) and elsewhere depart from Naharlagun, 10km away. Trains from Guwahati run to Harmuti, 33km east in Assam. State and private buses connect Itanagar with Guwahati (10–11hr) and destinations throughout the state. Sumos are quicker; destinations include Along (10hr), Bomdila (7–8hr), Hapoli (5hr) and Pasighat (6–7hr). Agents around Ganga Market sell tickets. There’s an intermittently open tourist office (t 0360/221 4745, w http://www.arunachaltourism.com) behind the Akash Deep complex in Ganga Market. Ocean Cyber Café, 300m downhill of Zero Point, offers internet access (Rs20/hr).

Itanagar has several decent hotels, including Arun Subansiri, just below Zero Point (t 0360/221 2806, f 229 0097; Rs1201–3000), which has a cool marble interior and vast rooms with reliable hot water and TVs. Nearby, the slightly cheaper Moomsie (t 0360/229 0971; Rs701–2000) has pink- and peach-coloured rooms with TVs, cane furniture and clean attached bathrooms. The friendly Blue Pine on APST Road, Ganga Market (t 0360/221 1118; Rs301–1200) has austere but acceptable rooms with TVs and shared or attached bathrooms (both have squat toilets), plus a dorm (Rs100).

The restaurants at Arun Subansiri, Moomsie and Blue Pine serve the usual mix of Indian and Chinese food (mains Rs40–140), plus a few interesting Northeastern dishes. Alternatively, try Food Plaza, near the entrance to the Akash Deep complex, which offers momos (dumplings), fried rice and noodles (Rs30–80).

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