Known as “the city of temples” because of the many shrines that dot the town, JAMMU is more attractive than its reputation suggests and worthy of at least a full day en route to Kashmir, for which it is the railhead (at least until the line to Srinagar is complete). The main place of worship in town is the revered Ragunath temple, although it is surpassed in importance by Vaishno Devi, near Katra, some 60km north. The city also boasts the impressive Bahu Fort, which crowns a hill overlooking the River Tawi and the splendid Baja-u-Bahu gardens. The town’s principal museum is the mildly absorbing Amar Mahal, which showcases period art.

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