India // Goa //


Tivim (Thivim), the nearest railway station to Mapusa, is 12km east in the neighbouring Bicholim district. Buses should be on hand to transport passengers into town, from where you can pick up local services to Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, Vagator, Chapora and Arambol. These leave from the Kadamba Bus Stand, five minutes’ walk west of the main square, where all state-run services from Panjim also pull in. Motorcycle taxis hang around the square to whisk lightly laden shoppers and travellers to the coast for around Rs50–65. Taxis charge considerably more (around Rs150), but you can split the fare with up to five people.

The Konkan Railway’s Konkan Kanya Express (#KR0111 arrives in Tivim at around 9.30am, leaving plenty of time to find accommodation in the coastal resorts west of Mapusa. Best of the eating options on or around the main square is the Ruchira, within the Hotel Satyaheera on the north side of the main square, which serves a standard multi-cuisine menu and cold beer. For quick, authentically Goan food, you won’t do better than the recently revamped FR Xavier café over in the Municipal Market, which has been here since the Portuguese era.

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