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North across the Waibaidu Bridge from the Bund, you enter an area that, before the war, was the Japanese quarter of the International Settlement, and which since 1949 has been largely taken over by housing developments. The obvious interest lies in the Lu Xun Park area (also known Hongkou Park), and its monuments to the political novelist Lu Xun, although the whole district is lively and architecturally interesting.
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Lu Xun Park
Lu Xun Park
Lu Xun Park (鲁迅公园, lŭxùn gōngyuán) is one of the best places for observing Shanghainese at their most leisured. Between 6am and 8am, the masses undergo their daily tai ji workout; later in the day, amorous couples frolic on paddle boats in the park lagoon and old men teach their grandkids how to fly kites. The park is also home to the pompous Tomb of Lu Xun, complete with a seated statue and an inscription in Mao’s calligraphy, which was erected here in 1956 to commemorate the fact that Lu Xun had spent the last ten years of his life in this part of Shanghai. The tomb went against Lu Xun’s own wishes to be buried simply in a small grave in a western Shanghai cemetery. The novelist is further commemorated in the Lu Xun Memorial Hall (鲁迅纪念馆, lŭxùn jìniànguăn), also in the park, to the right of the main entrance. Exhibits include original corre- spondence, among them letters and photographs from George Bernard Shaw.
