Coloane comprises nine square kilometres of hilly parkland, more colonial fragments and some decent beaches, making it a pleasant place to spend a few hours. After crossing Cotai, buses pass the Parque de Seac Pai Van, a large park with paths leading uphill to a white marble statue of the goddess A-Ma – at 19.99m high, it is the tallest in the world. A short way on, all buses stop at the roundabout in pretty Coloane Village on the western shore, overlooking mainland China just across the water and home to a fair number of expats; here, Lord Stow’s Bakery, at the sea end of the square, offers irresistible natas, Portuguese egg tarts. To the north of the village are a few junk-building sheds, while the street leading south from the village roundabout, one block back from the shore, contains a couple of shops selling dried marine products and the unexpected yellow and white St Francis Xavier Chapel, where a relic of the saint’s arm bone is venerated. A couple of hundred metres beyond this is the Tam Kung Temple, housing a metre-long whale bone carved into the shape of a ship.