What to see in Central Valley Chile
While the main artery of the Panamericana runs all the way south from Santiago, through Rancagua to Los Angeles and beyond, the kernel of the Central Valley lies between the capital and the city of Chillán, some 400km south – a region where, during the colonial era, the vast private estates known as estancias, or haciendas, were established. The people have held on to many of their rural traditions and the cult of the huaso, or cowboy, is as strong as ever, as can be witnessed at the frequent rodeos held in stadiums known as medialunas.
Further south again, the busy city of Concepción guards the mouth of the Bío Bío, the mighty river that for over three hundred years was the boundary between conquered, colonial Chile and unconquered Mapuche territory, whose occupants withstood domination until 1883. Traces of the frontier still linger, visible in the ruins of colonial Spanish forts, the proliferation of Mapuche place names and the tin-roof pioneer architecture. Beyond the Bío Bío, towards the Lake District, the gently sloping plains giving way to verdant native forests and remote Andean lakes.
Many visitors bypass the Central Valley altogether, whizzing south towards the more dramatic landscapes of the Lake District and beyond. Certainly the agricultural towns dotted along the highway – Rancagua, San Fernando, Curicó, Talca and Los Angeles – are, on the whole, rather dull, but stray a few kilometres off the Panamericana and you’ll catch a glimpse of an older Chile abounding with pastoral charms. Chief among these are the region’s small, colonial villages, with their colourful adobe houses topped by overhanging clay-tiled roofs, many of which were, unfortunately, damaged in the 2010 earthquake and are now in various states of repair. Among the prettiest examples are Vichuquén, west of Curicó, and Villa Alegre, south of Talca in the Maule Valley, where you can also visit a trail of lush, emerald vineyards.
Away from the valley floor, you’ll find attractions of a very different nature. To the west, up in the coastal hills, a couple of lakes offer great watersports facilities, notably Lago Rapel, while further west a number of inviting beaches and cheerful seaside towns are scattered down the coast, among them the popular surfer hangout of Pichilemu. East of the valley, the dry, dusty slopes of the Andes offer excellent horseriding and hiking opportunities, particularly along the trails of protected areas such as Reserva Nacional Altos del Lircay, near Talca. After a strenuous day in the mountains, relax in one of the many hot springs in the area, including the Nevados de Chillán at the base of a booming ski and adventure resort.
The amount of annual rainfall picks up steadily as you head south; by the time you reach the Bío Bío there is a significant amount of rain every month. While winter is never too cold, most visitors come here between October and March.
The Rapel Valley
Rancagua makes a good base for exploring several attractions in the adjacent Rapel Valley, including the 40km-long Lago Rapel, the largest artificial lake in Chile. In the opposite direction, a paved highway known as the Carretera del Cobre heads 60km east into the cordillera to the copper mine of El Teniente and the Chapa Verde ski centre, while a southern fork takes you to the Reserva Nacional Río los Cipreses.
Lago Rapel
The forty-kilometre-long artificial Lago Rapel nestles in the low coastal hills southwest of Rancagua. Most of the action is centred around the main town of El Manzano, on the lake’s eastern shore. The lake’s main attractions are its excellent watersports facilities, with speed boats, windsurfers and jet skis available for rent from several hotels and campsites.
The Colchagua Valley
The 120-kilometre-long valley of the Río Tinguiririca is known locally as the Colchagua Valley after the province through which it runs. This is serious fruit-production territory, as signalled by the numerous fruit stalls and large Del Monte factories lining the highway on the approach to San Fernando. Forty-one kilometres west is Santa Cruz, a starting point for visiting various vineyards. Still further east, high in the cordillera, the Termas del Flaco is an inexpensive option for soaking in hot springs. Around San Fernando, the Ruta del Vino del Valle de Colchagua takes in a trail of local vineyards as well as the world-class Museo de Colchagua, with historical regional and international artefacts, while if you continue to the coast, you’ll get to the hip, budget seaside town of Pichilemu, popular with surfers.
San Fernando
Surrounded by low, rippling hills washed golden in the sunlight, San Fernando, some 55km south of Rancagua, is a busy little agricultural town that makes for a pleasant amble along its streets. The main commercial artery is Manuel Rodríguez, which, on the corner with Valdivia, has the huge nineteenth-century Iglesia de San Francisco, a Neo-Gothic church with a 32m-high tower, which took quite a blow in the 2010 earthquake and is in urgent need of repair. There is a similar monument, the Capilla San Juan de Dios, eight blocks north, on the corner of Negrete and Manso de Velasco. The verdant Plaza de Armas is surrounded by handsome colonial buildings, with the cavernous nineteenth-century Parroquia San Fernando Rey church on its southeastern corner.
Santa Cruz
Forty-one kilometres west of San Fernando, the paved road running through the Colchagua Valley to the coast takes you past a trail of wineries. The small, well-preserved town of Santa Cruz, 40km from San Fernando, sits in the heart of this renowned wine-making district and boasts the Museo de Colchagua, one of the best museums in the country.
The private Museo de Colchagua is housed in a splendid, plum-coloured colonial hacienda. Owned by international arms dealer Carlos Cardoen (the so-called “king of cluster bombs”), it has a well-designed, extensive and eclectic collection, including fossils, a huge amount of amber, pre-Columbian pottery and jewellery, relics from the War of the Pacific and memorabilia from the Chilean Independence movement. Among the most evocative exhibits are the beautiful old saddles, carved wooden stirrups and silver spurs in the huaso display, as well as the multimedia exhibit on the 2010 rescue of “Los 33”, complete with a reconstruction of their “refugio”.
Pichilemu
The bustling surfer town of Pichilemu lies 87km west of Santa Cruz. Built around a wide, sandy bay at the foot of a steep hill, the town dates from the second half of the nineteenth century, when Agustín Ross Edwards set out to create a European-style seaside resort. Today Pichilemu wears the charming, melancholy air of a faded Victorian seaside town. From the seafront, a broad flight of steps sweeps up the hillside to the splendid Parque Ross, planted with century-old Phoenix palms and extravagant topiary.
On the edge of the park, jutting out over the hillside, the grand old casino – Chile’s first but now functioning as a cultural centre – is perhaps the most evocative of Ross’s legacies. In contrast, Pichilemu’s central streets are crammed with snack bars and schoperías catering to the crowds of young surfers who come to ride the waves – among the best in all of Chile.
The most challenging surf is at Punta de Lobos, 6km south, where the national surfing championships are held. Look out for the sea lions in the beach’s peculiar escarpments. Closer to town, surfers wade into the chilly sea (the ocean temperature rarely rises above 14°C) at La Puntilla, which juts out at the western end of the calmer main beach, Playa Las Terrazas. Just south of here lies Playa Infiernillo, with a faster wave for more experienced surfers. Pichilemu took a battering in the 2010 tsunami and earthquake, but bounced back faster than a surfer after a wipeout.
La Ruta del Vino del Valle de Colchagua
The Valle de Colchagua lies in the middle of one of Chile’s finest wine-making districts. Eight wineries in the area have formed an itinerary called the Ruta del Vino. Tours (half-day/two wineries CH$66,000, full-day/three wineries CH$99,000) run daily and include multilingual guides and the chance to sample wines at each winery. Reservations must be made at least 24 hours in advance via Ruta del Vino. The agency can also arrange accommodation and transfers from Santiago. Tours run year round but the best time to go is in late March, during harvest. The following are some of the best wineries to visit.
Viña Casa Silva
Founded in 1892, this picturesque vineyard has classic wine-tasting facilities and a top-notch restaurant. Hour-long tours cost around CH$20,000. Five tours daily.
Viña Clos Apalta
The titular tipple produced at Lapostolle’s gravity-fed winery is organic and biodynamic. There are standard 1hr tasting tours of the 445-acre estate (CH$20,000) as well as private visits (CH$35,000). Accommodation at Clos Apalta Residence is also available. Standard tasting tours 10.30am, 12.30pm, 4pm & 5.30pm.
Viña Laura Hartwig
On the outskirts of Santa Cruz, this compact winery has 198 acres of vines dating from 1979. As well as tasting tours (CH$12,000–16,000), the winery has the excellent hotel Terra Viña (see below) and restaurant Vino Bello. Tasting tours daily 9.30am–7pm.
Viña Montes
A tractor ride through the picturesque 23-year-old vineyard is included in the tours of Monte’s Apalta estate, 43km northeast of Santa Cruz. As well as standard 1hr tours (CH$7000–30,000), they offer guided nature hikes and a lunch option (CH$30,000). Standard tours daily 11am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm & 5.30pm
Viña MontGras
This 494- acre bodega 12km west of Santa Cruz produces, among others, the once rare and now classic Chilean Carmenère wine. The vineyard tours (from CH$12,000) are packed with interesting information about Chilean wine, and include a tasting. Three or four tours daily.
Viña Viu Manent
Just 7km east of Santa Cruz, this is one of the most visited vineyards in the area. A trip to the third-generation, family-owned winery includes a vintage carriage ride through the 370-acre estate and a comprehensive tasting (CH$13,000). There’s also a nice on-site wine and crafts store and gourmet restaurant, Rayuela. Four tours daily.
2010 earthquake
Central Chile was devastated by one of the most powerful earthquakes in recorded history when an 8.8-magnitude quake struck off its coast on February 27, 2010, triggering a powerful Pacific-wide tsunami. The earthquake cost 521 lives, injured 12,000 and left more than 800,000 people homeless. Concepción, 115km southeast of the epicentre, was hardest hit, with looting and violence bringing further chaos to the city. The cities of Curicó, Talca and Chillán also suffered severe damage, while the tsunami washed away parts of the coastal towns of Constitución, Talcahuano, Pichilemu and Iloca. The cities of Valparaíso and Santiago sustained some, albeit comparatively small, damage.
Roads and bridges were repaired soon after the earthquake, and in the ensuing months and years the region has picked itself up and rebuilt with heroic determination. Note however that many of the region’s century-old adobe homes and haciendas, particularly those in the Colchagua Valley, are lost forever or have expensive and lengthy renovations ahead of them.
The Mataquito Valley
The Teno and Lontué rivers converge to form the broad Río Mataquito, which meanders west through Chilean wine country towards the Pacific. The town of Curicó (54km south of San Fernando) sits in the Mataquito Valley and makes a convenient place to break your journey. Curicó aside, the main attractions of the Mataquito Valley are the wineries, the Lago Vichuquén, near the coast, and the Siete Tazas waterfalls, southeast towards the mountains.
Curicó
Bustling little Curicó, founded in 1743, is the only town of any significance in the Mataquito Valley. An agro-industrial centre servicing the surrounding vineyards, it suffered badly in the 2010 earthquake but a construction boom is currently underway. While Curicó has little to hold your interest for more than a few hours, it is the gateway for excursions to both nearby wineries and Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas.
Curicó is built around one of the most beautiful central plazas in Chile, luxuriantly planted with sixty giant Canary Island palms. Standing in their shade, on the northern side of the square, is a highly ornate, dark-green wrought-iron bandstand, constructed in a New Orleans style in 1904, while close by an elaborate fountain features a cast-iron replica of The Three Graces. In contrast to these rather fanciful civic commissions, the memorial to Toqui Lautaro – the Mapuche chief at whose hands Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia came to a grisly end – is a raw and powerful work, carved out of an ancient tree trunk.
Standing on the northwest corner of the square, the Iglesia La Matriz makes for a curious sight, its grand Neoclassical facade giving way to a spacious and modern brick interior.
Vichuquén
West of Curicó, a scenic road follows the northern bank of the Río Mataquito through the fertile river valley. Eighty-five kilometres along the road, just beyond Hualañé village, take the right fork and follow the signs for a further 25km along a dirt road to tiny Vichuquén, one of the best-preserved villages in the Central Valley. Most of the brightly painted adobe houses date from the mid-nineteenth century, but Vichuquén’s history goes back much further: there was a settlement here long before the arrival of the Spaniards, and it was chosen by the Inca as a site for one of their mitimaes – agricultural colonies populated by Quechua farmers brought down from Peru. You’ll find relics of the Inca occupation – and a three-thousand-year-old mummy – in the Museo Colonial, on Calle Rodríguez.
Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas
Of all the natural phenomena in Chile, the Siete Tazas, 71km southeast of Curicó, must be one of the most extraordinary. In the depths of the native forest, a crystal-clear mountain river drops down a series of seven waterfalls, each of which has carved a sparkling taza (“teacup”) out of the rock. The falls are inside Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, reached by a poor dirt road from the village of Molina, 18km south of Curicó – be sure to fill up with petrol there. Though busy on summer weekends, this park is practically empty the rest of the year. Also within the reserve are forests, several hiking trails and the Velo de Novia (“Bride’s Veil”), a 50m waterfall spilling out of a narrow gorge. For keen hikers, it’s also possible to trek from Siete Tazas to Reserva Nacional Altos del Lircay, but you’ll need to hire a local guide.