As far as Lima’s inhabitants are concerned, Miraflores is the major focus of the city’s action and nightlife, its streets lined with cafés and the capital’s flashiest shops. A good place to make for first is the Huaca Pucllana, a temple, pre-Columbian tomb and administrative centre in the middle of suburban Miraflores. This vast pre-Inca adobe mound continues to dwarf most of the houses around and has a small site museum, craft shop and very good restaurant (see Miraflores). From the top of the huaca you can see over the office buildings and across the flat roofs of the multicoloured houses in the heart of Miraflores.

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15 things everyone learns backpacking South America

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