East from the Panamericana, 41km south of Ancud, a pictureque coastal road leads along the coast to Quemchi, an attractive little fishing town with narrow, irregular streets sloping down to the water’s edge. On a sunny day, the sight of snow-tipped volcanoes beyond the village makes for an impressive sight. A couple of kilometres south, there’s a tiny wooded island, Isla Aucar, only accessible by a 500m-long footbridge. Nestled on the island is a small wooden church with a duck-egg-blue roof and white walls.

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