About 1km to the northeast of São Bento, at Rua da Cantareira 306, you’ll find the Mercado Municipal, an imposing, vaguely German neo-Gothic hall, completed in 1933. Apart from the phenomenal display of Brazilian and imported fruit, vegetables, cheese and other produce, the market is most noted for its enormous stained-glass windows depicting scenes of cattle raising, market gardening and coffee and banana plantations. Traditionally, Brazilians eat pastel de bacalhau – a salt fish and potato pie – here. If that doesn’t sound very appetizing, then head up to the mezzanine, where a range of patio restaurants make up a food court that is considerably more colourful and authentic than the kind you find in shopping malls.

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