Head for the docks nearer the large concrete wharves for riverboats to Manaus and Belém, where you can ask the various captains when they’re leaving and how much they’ll charge. Companies running boats to Manaus and Belém include Antônio Rocha, Rua 24 de Outubro 1047 t 93/3522-7947; Marquês Pinto Navegação, Rua do Imperador 746 t 93/3523-2828; and Tarcisio Lopes, Rua Galdino Veloso 290-B t 93/3522-2034. Wandering along the waterfront is the best way to find boats heading to the towns between Belém and Manaus; although the larger boats stop at them as well, it’s better to get one of the medium-sized boats that only ply that route, since everyone on it will be local and it will probably be less crowded. These boats usually have placards hanging from their side or set out on the concrete promenade, advertising their destinations and departure times. They are very cheap, and most serve beer and soft drinks en route, but your best bet is to take your own food.

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