Wildlife-spotting excursions are organized through the posadas, which take visitors out in their small motorboats, with the boatmen acting as guides. After speeding across the centre of the lake, the boats dip under the causeway bridge, calling in at the visitors’ centre to register, before cutting their engines to drift through the narrow streams that thread between the islands on the other side of the laguna. This silent approach allows you an incredibly privileged view of the esteros’ wildlife; turning a corner you suddenly find yourself among a wonderful landscape of water lilies and verdant floating islands, the whole of it teeming with bird and animal life. Sometimes guides will take you onto the floating islands themselves; it’s a particularly bizarre experience to feel the ground vibrating beneath your feet as you move. Another trip takes you along the Río Miriñay, home to slightly different varieties of flora and fauna to the lake. Enquire also about horse rides in the nearby marshes, another excellent way to see birds and the like, especially in the morning.

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