Most of the rafting takes place near El Encanto, about 5km from the centre of Tlapacoyan off the Nautla road. There’s a waterfall here, and spectacular river views enjoyed by a cluster of rafting camps. Good ones to try are:
Aventurec t 225 315 0291, w aventurec.com. Lots of activities including horseriding (from M$200) and kayaking as well as rafting (M$550). Accommodation is in large cabins, hostel dorms or camping, and one-night packages start from around M$1300.
Filobobos Camp t 225 315 1784, w filoboboscamp.com.mx. The largest of the operators, with a restaurant and pool plus a variety of activities in addition to rafting, including a zipwire, hiking and mountain-biking. Accommodation is in basic wooden cabins or camping. Full day of activities M$850, three-day package M$2250.
Titanic t 232 321 5966. 4WD trips to the waterfall (M$150) as well as rafting from M$100 per person. There’s camping space, plus a couple of lovely rooms with a/c and cable TV (M$750 a night).