An important shrimp-fishing port on the main Hwy-15 corridor, GUAYMAS, around 180km north of Navajoa, claims some proud history but has little to offer visitors. Unless you’re looking for somewhere to crash for one night, it’s advisable to head for nearby beaches; the resort town of San Carlos is just a short bus ride away. One reason to linger in Guaymas is the annual carnival, held here in February since 1888 and one of Mexico’s best (it begins on the Thurs before Ash Wednesday and ends at the beginning of Lent). Concerts and parades are held all over town (the main location is the Plaza de los Tres Presidentes), beginning with the traditional burning in effigy of something or someone who has upset the public that year (Vicente Fox and George Bush have both featured in the past). Note that accommodation in town is booked months in advance.
Most bus companies have terminals on C 14 near C 12, a couple of blocks south of Serdán and within walking distance of the waterfront. Buses to San Carlos cost M$9. Tufesa and TAP have terminals 1km west at García López 927 and 915 respectively (near C Jaiba).
Ferries from Santa Rosalía in Baja California arrive at the docks 2km east of the centre, easily reached on local buses (M$5) along Serdán. The ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalía departs on Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri and Sat at 8pm; the crossing takes seven hours. Always call in advance, though, as schedules often change. One-way tickets are M$790 (returns are M$1480), but you’ll often get a discount on Sun. A cabin is an additional M$900, while cars cost M$3200 (one way). The ticket office inside the terminal is open Mon–Sat 8am–3pm (
622 222 0204, w ferrysantarosalia.com).
Carr Internacional Salida al Norte s/n
622 225 2800, w hotelarmida.com.mx. If you have to stay in Guaymas, aim for this well-equipped hotel, close to the TAP and Tufesa terminals, with 124 rooms ranging from luxurious doubles (M$1220) to decent standards. M$660
Hotel del Sol
García López 995
622 224 9411,
[email protected] Prices here are a bit cheaper than the Armida, with 25 simple but adequate rooms close to the main bus terminals. M$580
Eating and drinking
Coctelería El Doug Out
García López between calles 11 and 12
622 222 2626. A no-frills food court offering excellent crab and various ceviche, pulpo cocido and other shellfish, all for well under M$100 (half kilo of shrimp is M$70). Daily noon–10pm.
Serdán at C 25
622 222 4270. A justly popular local comedor at the far end of Serdán, lauded for its giant papas locas (huge baked potatoes stuffed with meat, cheese and cream) and tacos carne asada. Daily 4–10pm.