Like most of Mexico, Easter (Semana Santa) is the biggest celebration in San Miguel, but September is a more interesting month for visitors: on Independence Day (Sept 16) crowds gather to celebrate with fireworks, dances, bullfights and a rodeo. The most important town fiesta is of San Miguel Arcángel, two days of processions, concerts, traditional dancing, bullfights and ceremonies around September 29, St Michael’s traditional feast day. The other major saints day is the Fiesta de San Antonio de Padua (June 13), with a colourful parade for one of the town’s patron saints, St Antony of Padua, involving a procession of crazily dressed revellers known as “Los Locos” (the Crazies).
Film and music festivals also pepper the year in San Miguel, kicking off with the Guanajuato International Film Festival (third week of July; t415 152 7264, wguanajuatofilmfestival.com), a week-long short-film festival hosted jointly by San Miguel and Guanajuato. The quarter-century-old Festival Internacional de Música de Cámara (Chamber Music Festival; first two weeks in Aug;
t415 154 8722, wfestivalsanmiguel.com) features a range of performances by internationally acclaimed musicians. The Festival Internacional de Jazz & Blues (last week of Nov/first week Dec; wsanmigueljazz.com.mx) includes two shows nightly by international performers at various locations in town from M$250 up. At other times, check out the programme at the Teatro Ángela Peralta at Mesones 82 (t415 152 2200), which typically hosts ballet, theatre and occasional performances of classical music throughout the year.