One of the most innovative developments in Amman’s dining scene in recent years is Beit Sitti, a project set up by Maria Haddad and her sisters Dina and Tania in which visitors cook their own meal under supervision. In a spotless modern kitchen installed in a charming historic townhouse, you get to spend a couple of hours handling ingredients, learning techniques and hearing stories of culinary endeavour from chefs – generally wives and mothers with a lifetime of cooking behind them – as you prepare a three-course Arabic meal. Then, of course, you scoff your handiwork together, often on the shaded front terrace, with a gorgeous view over the Downtown rooftops. Wine is also available. It’s a wonderful, insightful experience – cultural as much as culinary – that has rapidly become a hit among locals as well as visitors.

Reservations – which are essential, at least one day ahead – are very flexible: they can accommodate bookings for breakfast, lunch or dinner, at times to suit you. If you’re booking as an individual or couple, they will try to slot you in with the next available group – or you can pay extra for a private session of your own.

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