Stuck in the middle of a mountainous nowhere, on a hill overlooking a tributary of the young Euphrates, sleepy DIVRIĞI merits a visit for the sake of a single monument – the whimsical and unique Ulu Cami and its dependency, the Darüşşifa. These date from the early thirteenth century, when the town was the seat of the tiny Mengüçeh emirate. The Mongols, who evicted the Mengüçehs in 1252, demolished the castle but left the religious foundations alone, and the place was not incorporated into the Ottoman Empire until 1516.

Divriği retains a ramshackle bazaar area, crisscrossed by cobbled lanes and grapevines. It also sports distinctive wooden minarets and old houses with inverted-keyhole windows, neither of which are seen elsewhere in Anatolia. The conspicuous mosque and sanitorium, joined in one complex at the top of a slope 250m east of town, command a fine view.

 

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