South of Üsküdar and across the bay from Kadıköy, the serried ranks of enormous nineteenth- and early twentieth-century buildings in Haydarpaşa make quite an impact as you approach by ferry. The palace-like mainline Haydarpaşa train station, jutting into the Bosphorus, was completed in 1908 by a German architect as part of Germany’s grandiose plans for a Berlin-to-Baghdad railway. It was presented to Sultan Abdülhamid II by Kaiser Wilhelm II; its stained glass is particularly impressive. The station is likely to be sidelined by the giant Marmaray transport infrastructure project, and was only open for suburban services at the time of writing.
Directly north of the station, between the sea and Tıbbiye Caddesiare, is the Marmara University and the British War Cemetery, a beautifully kept spot sheltering the dead of the Crimean War and the two world wars.

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