One of İzmir’s best sights is the city itself, seen from the bay it surrounds – at TL6.50 for a return trip, these are by far the Aegean’s cheapest boat trips. Boats head from three docks – Konak, Pasaport and Alsancak – to the best destination, Karşıyaka. Leaving from Pasaport provides the most spectacular trip, crawling past İzmir’s 1970s’ tricolore of white-yellow-brown buildings to Alsancak, before heading across the bay.
Karşıyaka itself is a pleasant part of İzmir, its pedestrianized central street – Kemalpaşa Cad – sporting a clutch of shops, restaurants and cafés. Try eating at Alesta, a small restaurant facing the local mosque, selling cheap seafood sandwiches, and sandwiched itself by two fishmongers.