From Place de la Palud the medieval Escaliers du Marché lead up to the Cathedral, a fine Romanesque-Gothic jumble. Opposite, in the former bishop’s palace, is the Musée Historique, covering the history of the canton of Vaud.

Next door is the MUDAC Musée de Design et d’Arts Appliqués Contemporains displaying contemporary glass and temporary exhibitions upstairs. Lausanne suffered many medieval fires, and is the last city in Europe to keep alive the tradition of the nightwatch: every night, on the hour (10pm–2am), a sonorous-voiced civil servant calls from the cathedral tower “C’est le guet; il a sonné l’heure” (“This is the nightwatch; the hour has struck”).

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