TÄRNABY, 125km northwest of Storuman along the E12, is the birthplace of Sweden’s greatest skier, Ingemar Stenmark. A double Olympic gold medallist, he occasionally spiced up his training here with a spot of tightrope walking and monocycling. It’s a pretty place: yellow flower-decked meadows run to the edge of the mountain forests, the trees felled to leave great empty swathes that accommodate World Cup ski slopes. Since there’s not much to do in Tärnaby itself, it’s a much better idea to explore the surrounding countryside: a popular walk leads across the nearby mountain, Laxfjället, which affords fantastic views down over the village. Another good walk for a sunny day leads to the beach at Lake Laisan, though the water is rarely warm enough to swim even in the height of summer; to get there, take the footpath that branches off right from the main Sandviksvägen past the campsite or ask the tourist office for precise directions.

Hemavan

Buses continue from Tärnaby to HEMAVAN, 18km northwest, which marks the beginning and the end of the 500km Kungsleden trail. This tiny, nondescript village, straddling the main road, is totally devoid of attractions. It’s purely and simply a service centre which provides accommodation and eating opportunities to hikers starting and ending the trail here. Hemavan can be busy during the peak summer season (mid-June to mid-Aug) and at this time it’s therefore wise to book a bed in advance to be sure of somewhere to stay.

Travel offers; book through Rough Guides

Sweden features

The latest articles, galleries, quizzes and videos.

You’ll soon be able to stay at the ICEHOTEL throughout the year

You’ll soon be able to stay at the ICEHOTEL throughout the year

The ICEHOTEL, constructed from snow and ice each year, has long been Swedish Lapland’s blockbuster attraction. It features in our list of the top 21 things to…

19 Apr 2016 • Eleanor Aldridge insert_drive_file Article
Trail-running in the stunning Swedish countryside

Trail-running in the stunning Swedish countryside

Ros Walford goes leaping over granite rocks to give you the lowdown on Sweden’s only coastal trail-running race.  What is this strangely named Icebug Xperie…

09 Nov 2015 • Ros Walford insert_drive_file Article
Scandinavia for first-timers: 7 ideas for short breaks

Scandinavia for first-timers: 7 ideas for short breaks

On the face of it, Scandinavia isn’t a very sensible place for a holiday. For one thing, it’s almost always going to be colder than the place you’re leavi…

09 Oct 2015 • Steve Vickers insert_drive_file Article
View more featureschevron_right

Join over 60,000 subscribers and get travel tips, competitions and more every month

Join over 60,000 subscribers and get travel tips, competitions and more every month